When I posted the finished pics of the Land raider Redeemer I did as a commission, I had a few requests for how I got the gun barrles to look the way they did.
Real easy to do.1. As an example, I'm using this heavy flamer. I prime/basecoated it black. It's part of the same commission and is going on the bottom of a Landspeeder so I want it to match everything else.
2. Paint the base colors, in this case, it's only silver.
3. Heavy wash of Badab Black over the silver.
4. Highlight the black portions of the gun.
5. Heavy drybrush of brown starting at the muzzle and going back about 2/3 of the way of the vented portion of the muzzle.
6. Carefully drybrush black on just the front 1/3 of the muzzle, you want to see some brown before you get into the silver on the back part of the barrel.
You can vary the depths to your liking, the heavier the soot, the more used the gun looks.
And you don't have to worry about how "clean" you drybrush... there can be some irregularities in the buildup. Just make sure you don't leave any hard edges with your brown and black, make sure to fade them in the small space you have.
UPDATE: If you want to add that heat discolored look to your metal gun barrels, this post here will help.
Nice article Ron,
ReplyDeleteI find that MIG pigments Soot is very useful (or just black pastels ground up) for the very tips.
For metals (and especially flamers) using the edge of a 'B' pencil is always good.
And with flame units i find that washes of purple ink also help :)
thanks ron, very useful. i'll come back to this when i need to paint some heavy weps in the future!
ReplyDeletevery similar to how I did my Hflamers for Sisters, and the Immolators. I layered a bit of bronze instead of the brown, then went over with a little black. It gives the look of the paint having stripped off by the heat.
ReplyDeletePaul also gave a good idea with purple wash on first. propane torches and blowtorches often will have a wavy line of faint bluish purple on them from the heat
Good points guys, see... you all are way ahead of me with your fancy techniques and effects.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the additional tips!
Nice easy to follow technique Ron as always.
ReplyDeleteI get a somewhat similiar look for all the metal on my orks. I start with Black undercoat, then tin bitz dry brush (heavy), boltgun drybrush, then badab black wash, then a light thraka green wash around any "bitz" for some corrosion.
Well i know that i will be using this technique on some of my models/terrain that have the heavy coal stacks/chimneys on them. Thanks Ron, this is another good one for the books.
ReplyDeleteOne time I did that with a very old test-mini - a mletagunner I used flesh wash and black ink extensively. Made quite a nice effect, but flesh wash used to give that glossy surface, I suppose Ogryn Flesh would be fine though.
ReplyDeleteStill I'll prolly try that out as I have about 5 flamers and loads of meltas to paint up. :)
Good as always and simple. I use this method but use tin bitz instead of brown. Great work on the SM commission so far.
ReplyDeleteI have painted my Dark Eldar engines bronze and want to do some soot staining on them, do you think the brown and black will be as effective over bronze?
ReplyDeleteFish: Absolutely. You might have to push the contrast and make the effect a bit more prononunced to get it to stand out, but it should work just fine.
ReplyDeleteThis is a HUGE help. Was looking for this exact effect for the exhaust pipes on my Ork warbikes. Thanks for a very easy to follow article!
ReplyDeleteBrian: Excellent, glad it helped! The heat stained effect linked at the bottom of the post is another great effect for metal exhaust pipes as well.
ReplyDelete