Master of the Forge Raven Guard conversion

Not really a conversion I guess, just more icon replacement and a Raven Guard paint scheme. This guy is actually going from Master of the Forge to Raven Guard Veteran Sergeant.

I figured I would use this post to show how I go about taking the icons off the model before he gets painted up in his new colors. The painting is only half of the picture. In fact, most of the work is on the front end with getting him ready for paint.

To get icons and such off, I use a couple different things. Most of all, I use the X-Acto blade. That does about 99.9 percent of the work. The files are there to clean up the surface of larger areas and the dremmel is for really thick icons with lots of mass and such.

There are two things (or methods) I do to get the icons cleaned off.
The first method is scraping.
This is how I clean mold lines off everything. With metal models, I'll use the files to get mold lines off bigger models, but that can be real tough with some of the smaller models.
Holding the blade perpendicular to the surface, I pull it along the mold line and keep repeating until I've partly smoothed it out and partly scraped it away. With plastic models, it's more scraping it away. With metal, it's more smoothing the seam together.

The other method is slowly shaving the icon off. This works on seams that are really offset too. This is a slow process since it's usually very hard to get into the model to get at the icon itself. Some patience and a few blades are all it takes though.
In this method, the blade is held parallel with the surface of the model and you slowly work at cutting away small portions of the icon that stick up from the surface. This can be tough since you need to work from all angles to make sure you get all of the icon off and don't alter the underlying surface features. I usually follow this method up with some scraping to get the finished surface smooth enough that you can't tell anything was done.

I buy my blades in bulk so I never feel like I need to "save" the one I'm working with since it's all I have. The instant the tip breaks away or the blade shows any signs of wear, it's gone.
Maybe I should treat my dice like this, I might get better results.

And once he's cleaned up and mounted to his base, I'll go in and add the new icons to the model. Sometimes I'll add them before assembly depending on how hard they would be to sculpt once the model is built.

Here's a look at the finished model.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to clean mold lines off your models
How to freehand the Raven Guard chapter symbol

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!


  1. Thanks for the walkthrough. Though it seems like basic enough stuff, it's good to know you pros use the same techniques as us little guys. Guess I just need more practice now. :)

  2. Loving all of these Raven Guard! I don't recognize the base model for this one though, was there actually a Master of the Forge available at one time?

  3. That's the name I use for the model when I'm talking to my Client about the project. He's actually the Ultramarine Sergeant Chronus model.

  4. I'm really glad to see these models get re-chaptered; I plan on eventually doing the same thing for my homebrew chapter and it's neat seeing some different ways to go about it.

    Also- Brother Sergeant Chronus WOULD make a great basis for a Master o the Forge conversion.

  5. Going to be using Chronos to do a Crimson Fist Sternguard... skull is a clever way to cover where the old symbol was. Also, I have a question regarding the dremel. Is there any particular brand you would suggest?And any attachments you consider a must when it comes to conversions? I'm in Australia but any general tips would be appreciated.


  6. i like the conversion ! ..

    thats too much blades !1111 jeje

  7. Excellent Ron, I had been wondering how you went about converting all these metals.

  8. The simplest conversions are normally the best, Ron! Nice tutorial and nice work!

  9. Inspired by the number of blades just ordered 300 of them from the same manufacturer. Thanx for the idea!


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