Bloodthirster Bloodbath commission

(Image belongs to Artist Dan Wheaton)

This one's been in the works for a real long time now.
To be honest I didn't think it was going to ever happen, but I'm fortunate that I'll be able to work on this project from start to finish.

There's a datasheet for what I'm building.

My friend is looking for the best from me on this one so the bar is set pretty high.
If you've ever been down this road and built one of these guys, I'll gladly take any advice you might have. I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel, learn anything the hard way or build any more "character" during this project.

I will add this little nugget... I've started work on the "test" model already and I would say that a set of good metal files or at least a tapered "half circle" file is absolutely invaluable when it comes to removing mold lines from these metal monsters. The picture below shows the ones I use with the red shapes being a representation of the cross section of the actual tool.

If you're only going to get one, get the top one... the half circle.
Before I had these, I used my X-Acto blade to get mold lines off.

Now that I have these, I use the files almost exclusively for getting mold lines off.

Obviously I'll be posting updates as I make progress. The first thing I'll be doing is getting all the models cleaned and the bases built. I'm creating an urban look with some clay, plasticard and bits. I'll be making all the bases at once so they are consistent.
That's going to be one of the bigger if not the biggest challenge for this project... consistency.

My Project Link: Bloodthirster Bloodbath

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!


  1. Pin.
    They definitely need pinning.. even then they fall apart.. I've secured mine so much it's safe to pick it up by the wings :)

  2. I pinned mine extensively and everything has since broken except the torso-leg join and the whip arm. For the next one I build I might have two pins on each join.

    I also second the files; I got a huge set of these from a relative who was a goldsmith and they make cleaning and converting a hundred times easier.

  3. Depending on how bad the channels are, I found two sets of files is really handy. One coarse set for removing 1 mm in a single pass, and a fine set like you have pictured detailed filing. Also fine toothed saw.

    When I ordered a bloodthirster for someone, the model looked to have mostly the nice thin channels you can snip with a clippers, and then use the semi-round to clean.

    Also, as you are doing multiples in a short time, be careful of the dust. Tonight I intend to post an article about using a dremel on resin. Defiantly DO NOT hold the model up high against your chest for stability while filing/sanding.

  4. I second the pinning suggestion and would like to add: two-part epoxy glue as a minimum or it will fall apart eventually.

    Looking forward to see how your metal behemoths turn out.

  5. Will be keeping a eye on this one :)

  6. Would have to agree with the pinning that would be a huge help in making sure that is stays together. One thing though I would use different size pins for different joints. Working with Warmachine models (all metal) I can tell you that larger rods help out a lot in keeping the bigger joints together. Side note on the whips try and see if there is a way to sturdy them up a little as well. One of the biggest pain in the butt parts to have to deal with, in my opinion anyways. Good luck and can’t wait to see more as the project gets under way.

  7. Forgive me for being a little obtuse, but are you painting a Bloodthirster, or a ton of them?

  8. Seven GW metal ones and one FW resin model.

  9. Such a cool concept but the datasheet doesnt do it justice- all stock models posed and painted the same way... :( I look forward to seeing what you can do with this.


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