How to convert a Space Marine MK4 helmet


Now that I've built one, there are certainly some changes I would make, but I don't think I'll need to buy any more MK4 helmets now that I know I can make my own using a normal Space Marine helmet and some greenstuff.

The conversion is quite simple really and I'm certain I'm not the first one to share the idea. Hopefully my experiment and explanation will help some of you all overcome the hurdle of finding enough of this particular style helmet to outfit a Space Marine squad without going broke in the process.

As far as converting goes, it's a fairly simple and straightforward process. The only thing is making sure you do things in a certain order to make it as easy as possible.


We start with a regular helmet as our base. You can see what the MK4 style looks like next to it. We're going to add that stylized, sloped nose to the front of our regular helmet.


We start by adding a small blob of greenstuff to the front of our helmet. It doesn't take much. Don't worry if you added too much, we can (and will) cut off the excess at a later step.

The order is important
What portion you focus on first is important. Once you have your greenstuff in place, focus on the cheeks first. Make sure your greenstuff blends into the sides of the facepiece first before worrying about the shape of anything else. Get those sorted out now so you're not trying to "fix" them later on and run the risk of messing up your work.

Once you have the sides blended, focus on the ridge of the nose. Get that straight and crisp down the center. Don't worry about any excess greenstuff as you work, just push it downward... we're going to remove it shortly.

The nose ridge is created by pressing in on either side at an angle and going back and forth between the two until you can shape the ridge and get it situated correctly.


Once you have the sides blended and the nose ridge sculpted in place, you can add the vents. I used the pointy end of the standard GW sculpting tool to press mine in place. In hindsight, I should have made them a bit more pronounced and maybe thought about adding three instead of two, but this will work just as well.


Now for the tricky part
I know this part may give some folks some trouble, but it's the key to getting this done in one pass. If you don't want to try this, skip it, wait for the greenstuff to cure and then cut away the excess. It just means the hlemt will take slightly longer to sculpt. Not a big deal at all.

Taking a brand new X-Acto blade that is very wet, carefully cut (using a sawing motion) away the excess greenstuff from the bottom of the facepiece. Taking your time, you should be able to do it without disturbing your sculpting work above.

Once you have the bottom cut off flush with the bottom of the regular helmet, you can use your sculpting tool and make a small indentation for the mouth vent if you want.


Here's the completed helmet compared to a real one. Not too bad and it should certainly pass normal inspection. If it were 10 of these on a squad or spend a ton of cash for real ones, I'm going this route every time.


And just for good measure, here's the helmet painted up. You can't really tell it's conversion and that's perfect for me.

I think I may try the process again and let the greenstuff cure before cutting away the bottom excess material. I want to see if I can get a nice, crisp edge along the bottom there. That and I want to see if I can squeeze three vents in along the nose ridge instead of just two.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Power armour Chaplain helmet conversion
Grey Knight Terminator half-helmet conversion


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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How to make your own Pre-Heresy jump packs


A while ago I posted this Pre-Heresy World Eater Space Marine with a normal jump pack. After seeing Forge World release their Legion MKII Assault squad to go with their ever expanding Heresy era bits, I figured it was time to see if I could make my own jump pack on the cheap.


This project is more about seeing if it could be done quickly and cheaply more than anything else. You could expand on this quite easily and probably come up with something pretty convincing. A little more detail and these would most certainly pass first inspection and tabletop use. Maybe not the exact detail the Forge World ones have above, but close enough for me.

The only bit that I used that might be hard to get a hold of would be the two drop pod exhaust vents. That's right, drop pod bits. You really only need one if you are the casting type and then you could make a simple press mold and come up with enough for a whole assault squad army.


What you're going to need to do this conversion
You're not going to need much. Aside from the drop pod vents, it's a single plastic pen tube, a Chaos Marine backpack and some cardstock. The pen tube is from the cheapest pens I could find that had no printing on the sides of them. I bought a pack of them a while ago for the tubing for various projects.

The pen tube is 8mm wide from outside edge to outside edge in case you're wondering... pens come in lots of different sizes and such.


The pen tube is cut to 3/8 inch or 10mm long depending on what side of the pond you're on. The length could be anything really, it comes down to looks. The cardstock is cut to a suitable width as well as its only purpose is to bulk up the top of the tube so the vent does not look out of place glued on top.


Once I had my two engines built, I cut the vents off my Chaos backpack. I cut off the vents and made sure my cuts were straight up and down so I could mount my engines and they didn't look odd or at a weird angle. I also pinned my two engines in place for stability. I drilled through the seam of the cardstock in order to hide it under the connection point with the backpack.

I chose the Chaos backpack for the way the vents were attached. They are set out from the body of the backpack where Loyalist ones are kept in close. This made it much easier to mount my new engines. That and the pair of cables over the top helps bulk it out as well and lend a little bit of credibility to the conversion.



And what it looks like attached to the model. I think the scale is spot on myself. Like I said, it could use some more detailing on the engine housings, but other than that, this thing is a perfect fit for my purposes.

Since I had the spare drop pod engines and needed bits lying around, the cost for me was absolutely nothing to build this. If you had to buy it, you'd have to consider what it would cost to buy enough Chaos backpacks and then at least one drop pod exhaust vent (if you were willing to cast enough). The casting wouldn't be hard at all since it's a simple press mold at that.

Add detail for effect and if you're feeling crazy, you could even magnetize them for some truly functional jump packs. I think the magnets might cost more than the rest of the bits combined though.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Magnetized Flesh Tearer jump packs
Pre-Heresy World Eater Space Marine


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Making your own Command squad upgrades


With Forge World releasing their Legion MKIV Command Squad upgrades, I thought I might take a look at how you can make something similar and much cheaper.

I like the idea of Command squads even if they aren't the most effective choice. The idea of representing the unit that is commanding your force appeals to me for the modeling and painting opportunities most of all. The chance to convert something slightly different so it stands out on the table is one I rarely pass up.

That being said, the Forge World conversion bits are suited for a very specific time period and MK armour. I've been a bit more free in my interpretation and tried for something that was close, but maybe not exact.

This might be more for the budget conscious hobbyist who wants to represent their Heresy era command squad without dropping a ton of cash for a couple models.


Let's look at the helmet crest
These are nothing new. I used to make my own until I found them already made by Secret Weapon minis. Buying them is the way to go hands down. It's not worth trying to sculpt this little piece when you can pick up a pack of them. It can be done, but it's one of those things you're better off buying and saving yourself the modeling headache.

All I did for my Champion model is simply glue one of the roman style helmet crests in place. Add a leather strap tabard which is super easy to do (you can make this part) and you've got a completely different model in a few seconds.

Converting your own nuncio-vox caster backpack
This piece is a bit more difficult, but not impossible to recreate. You don't have to be spot on, just close. This is because Space Marine backpacks are so iconic, all you have to do is alter it slightly and folks will recognize it as being a "different" model used for something else.

I started by finding a suitable head to go along with it. If you had the MKIV helmet and wanted to convert it with the addition of some optics and such, you could. I cheated a bit and went with something already done and available.


You could use any style really, all you need is a helmet with all the fancy optics and such on it. You just need something to represent the modification, it doesn't have to be exact.

And now onto the backpack itself. I used the top half of a regular Space Marine backpack and the bottom half of an Imperial Guard vox caster turned upside down. You could probably use just about anything that was box shaped and the right size. Add a few rivets, some plugs and a cable and you'd be all set.


I added the antenna from the Imperial Guard vox to the top of my backpack and sculpted a cable to run down the back as well for good measure. Besides, the cable helps hide the hack conversion work which is a nice feature.


All in all, I'm calling these a win for the time involved and the look I get in the end. They're not exact, but they are close enough that I'm comfortable with them and I know that a little bit of paint will help sell the illusion as well.

It took no time at all to do these (the helmet crest is no real work at all) and the backpack took ten minutes tops if I count all the time I spent looking through my bits box at stuff I'd forgotten I had. Spend a few more minutes on them and you could have a conversion that is even closer to the Forge World bits just put out.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to make super simple leather strap tabards
Converting a Space Marine backpack for a slightly different look


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Sons of Horus Pre-Heresy terminator


I started this conversion the other day as a way to see if I could convert my own style of Cataphractii terminator armour. I have to say that painting him has certainly helped with the conversion. I used Forge World's scheme since I really like how the darker green looks. Normally these guys are seen as a much brighter and pale green, but I think the dark green looks pretty sharp.


As far as painting, I started out using the exact same approach I used for my Dark Angels. The green spray basecoat over the black primer. Form there, I added my metallic details and spent a little bit of time working on the face since it is the focal point of the model.


I opted to make his base a light color to contrast against the very dark model. A good discussion on that concept can be found here. I also toned my weathering down considerably on this guy and really tried to make sure I didn't over do it.

The painting does help hide some of the model's imperfections and gives you a much better feel for how he looks in the end. Sometimes it can be hard to imagine how a model is going to look in the end.

I think my favorite aspect is that this guy actually feels Pre-Hersy to me. I like the idea of Space Marine legions and not tiny chapters. There's something about that idea that is more "40k" to me than what Space Marines are today. I'm hoping to get my hands on the new Betrayal book from Forge World to see what else is out there from this period.

As a small side note, I was careful in how I applied my shading washes as well so that I could keep the highlighting effect I had with the spray paint. I think it helps the model much more than just covering the whole thing with a couple washes. It takes a few more minutes since you have to think about where you're applying your shading, but it's worth it in the end.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Here's the WIP conversion for this model
How to apply an overhead spray basecoat


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Cataphractii Terminator armour conversion


As soon as I saw these guys, I wanted to see if I could mimic something close. I've done some previous Pre-Hersy style armour before, but nothing this complex. I wanted to see if I could take what I'd done before and expand on it to get something that would be passable for Cataphractii terminators.

Let me back up a second and say that this guy is more of a test model to see if it could be done in the first place. He's got some really rough edges and could definitely use some more work overall. But... the idea is there and with some refining, this could produce a fairly respectable conversion I think.


So let's look at what I did and what can be improved.


This guy has had a few things done to him. From truescaling him up slightly (truescale tutorial can be found here) to bulking out his legs and then adding about a million extra rivets. I took what I saw as some of the key elements and tried to incorporate them into my conversion.

Starting at the top and working down, I removed the sensor array attached to the head piece. Far too advanced for this MK armour. The chest piece would not normally be sporting the eagle either. If I were to make an adjustment here, that would be shaved off and some basic trim and rivets would be added in its place.

I opted to go with a bare head since I did not have a suitable MK helmet I could use. I know they are out there as thrid party bits, I just didn't have one on hand. I suspect with a bit of filing away, you could get it to fit in the collar opening without too much trouble.

I added the neck armour but kept it simple and brought it straight across. The addition of a few rivets tie it in with everything else. An improvement would be to add some trim and match that up with the trim on the chest armour.

Nothing was done to the arms other than to change the shoulderpads. Instead of making my own, I cheated and used some from Maxmini that I had lying around. I could have made my own, but I was in a converting frenzy and went with what I had. I like these shoulderpads and buying them instead of making them can save you a good bit of time overall. The only downside is that you have to pick from the styles they have (of course that's true for any company out there). One issue I did run into with these was how they fit over the arms, I had to shave the shoulders down slightly in order to get the shoulderpads to fit correctly. Not a big deal, but not a hassle you want to deal with.

I added small leather straps using cardstock from under each shoulderpad and attached rivets to the ends. The tight fit of the shoulderpads made it tough to get the straps up under there and I spent some time fiddling with them to get them in place.


Like I mentioned, the torso has been extended by 2mm as well.
I absolutely love that little conversion.

The legs or at least the upper portion (thighs) have been bulked out. This proved to be a little bit of a challenge, but not as hard as I thought it was going to be overall. I had to cut away the side hip plates and I added a giant blob of greenstuff that I worked around the thigh. I tried to keep any rough areas on the inside where they wouldn't be seen as easily. The hardest part was getting the little tab that extends upward. I had to push the blob of greenstuff up and let it cure in place before cutting away the shape after it cured.

This little tab piece is not that big of a deal in the end since his arms block most of that area anyway, BUT it does help tremendously with bulking out his waistline and keeping the model looking "correct." I think the bigger thing here is getting rid of the hip plates and bulking out the overall thighs. That one change alone makes a huge difference in the final look of the model.

I gave him a leather strap half tabard which was super easy to do and I'll be covering in another tutorial. It's silly how easy it is to make one. I added some rivets to the bottom of the straps as well. The half tabard does two things for the model, bulks him out, and even more importantly, hides some imperfections which is great on projects like this.

The lower portion of the legs have had additional armour plates added to them to give them a different shape. I had to clean off some iconography already on the legs, but that was no big deal. I think an improvement here would be to use plasticard instead of cardstock for a smooth surface and prevent the splitting seen along the edge of the cardstock. That and adding a bit more detail to the surface of the armour with one more band of trim.

The trick is to make it look convincing by adding enough detail. I could even match the style of trim up with the chest plate so the design flows down the model.

The feet have had a thin spacer added to them to give the model a tiny bit more height overall. I like this small touch and may start including it on all my termies. It makes their boots look a little more heavy duty.

Overall, I'm going to call this guy a successful test model. There are a number of things I can improve on, but the idea is solid and it can be executed. Now it's time to paint him up. I think I'm go paint him up as a Sons of Horus like Forge World did with their squad.

Here's the finished model.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to make Pre-Heresy Terminator Shoulder armour
How to make Pre-Heresy Terminator leg armour
How to make terminator combi-weapons


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Pre-Heresy World Eater assault marine


I set out to paint this Pre-Heresy World Eater space marine with the sole purpose of practicing how to paint their chapter symbol. I've always liked the blue and white scheme and I've been wanting to do a miniature in this color combination forever. When I saw what Mordian 7th did on his blog with his pre-heresy World Eaters and how he broke down the chapter symbol, I had no more excuses.



Once I had my model all painted up with the base colors (prior to any weathering) I sat down to try my hand at the process Mordian 7th had laid out. I didn't stray from what he had, I followed it to the letter and it worked perfectly. I may have used different colors, but the process he came up with was spot on. He says he got his inspiration from the articles I posted here about breaking icons down into simple shapes, but that only goes so far.

There comes a point when you have to figure it out and all the theory in the world won't get your mini painted. He did a great job with this one. I even tried it in three places on mine just to make sure I could pull it off.


Here's the process he lays out for painting the symbol. I've got nothing to add to it. The only thing I altered were some of the colors since I used what I had. In the end, if I were to do it again, I'd make sure to use a slightly different blue for the ocean in my chapter symbol. That way, it stands out from the blue on the armour at first glance.


World Eaters symbol breakdown by Mordian 7th

As a side note, this model was simple to paint even with the white. I used the same white technique I used on my White Scar model. Start out with a white primer, wash with Secret Weapon Soft Body Black and then touch up with white. Even with GW introducing all their new paints, this still works like a charm.


If you're into Pre-Heresy World Eaters or want to see what it's like to work with lots of white, swing by Mordian 7th's blog and take a look at the great World Eater stuff he's doing.

And for you savvy readers, you'll notice a deliberate lack of blood splatters on my model. I wanted to see if I could do a convincing World Eater without any blood. I did add some red weapon markings to his chainsword and gave him a red tassel on the hilt of his chainsword for good measure though.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
You need to start with a CLEAN model before you weather it
The trick to painting small and complex iconography


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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How to make Pre-Heresy Terminator leg armour


It was only a matter of time before someone asked me to build one of these guys. Since posting my first one and The Dark Fortress graciously adding it to his gallery, I've gotten a few requests for how I built him. Actually the leg armour more than the shoulders since I've already got a tutorial for those here.

This guy is actually an improvement over my first since I stylised his leg plates a little more than I did on my first model.


For this guy, I'm using a regular plastic terminator for the base.


The first step is to clean the legs of any icons, purity seals and everything else. You also need to trim off the knee bolt on the sides of the knees too.


With the legs cleaned off, you can start making the templates for the model. Each pair of legs will require a unique template. So... if you're looking to do this for a full 5 man Terminator squad, you'll end up making 5 pairs of templates. One for each set of legs.


Making the templates is a matter of trial and error. Start out with a small piece of paper to get the right shape first. Then you can transfer that shape to your cardstock.
I've marked the order I go in when I'm making my cuts. I make one cut and test fit it. If it needs changing, I modify it a little and then test fit it again. Once that cut is good, I go on to the next cut and so on to the end.

Once you get the hang of it, it shouldn't take much more than 3 minutes to make a single leg template. If you mess up, just trace the part of the template that is good onto another piece of paper and start over again from the point you made the mistake.


You can see that each leg is different. You won't be able to use any shortcuts anywhere. Each one is custom. Believe me, it's easier to just make each one individually than it is to try and take a previous one and make it fit another style leg.


Actually making the leg plates is done the same way as the shoulderpads.
Here's the whole process instead of retyping it all here.


Once you have them made, you can shape them just like the shoulderpads except these are even easier since they don't require as sharp a curve as the shoulderpads do. Once you have it bent to shape, just glue it in place.
There may be some shrinking due to the glue and bending them so if you're real particular about where edges meet up, you might want to add an extra millimeter or two all the way around your template to account for the shrinking.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Pre-Heresy shoulderpad tutorial
FTW Collaborative Post on Pre-Heresy modeling and painting


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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Pre-Heresy Tips and Tricks


Image from Games Workshop

As a way of helping all those hobbyists out there who are looking for a little bit of assistance with creating a "Pre-Heresy" army, this post will be a collection of tips and tricks to help you get started.

Be careful though, once you start a Pre-Heresy force, it may be hard to stop.

Feel free to send in all your Pre-Heresy related links!

Modeling:
Armour: MK1 Part A, Part B, Part C by My Wargame
Armour: MK2 Part A, Part B, Part C by My Wargame
Armour: MK3 Part A, Part B, Part C by My Wargame
Armour: MK4 full tutorial by My Wargame
Armour: MK5 Part A, Part B by My Wargame
Armour: MK5 by Eaters of Worlds
Armour: Shoulder pads for terminators by Ron (FTW)
Imperial jetbike by Ron (FTW)
Imperial MK1 Land Raider by Lascannons and Lances
Product: Maxmini helmets and jump packs by Eaters of Worlds
Space Wolves: Terminator with pelt by Jon
Thousand Sons: Power armour by My Wargame

Painting:
Sons of Horus by Miniature Wargame Conversion
Space Wolves by My Wargame
Thousand Sons (metallic) by My Wargame

Gaming:
MK0 Terminator Armour Background by The Vanus Temple
World Eaters, which Codex to use by Eaters of Worlds

Additional Pre-Heresy sites:
The Great Crusade (forums)
Chapterhouse Studios (bits)
Micro Art Studios (robed leg bits)
Maxmini (helmet bits)
Lexicanum: Power Armour styles


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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How to build a Pre-Heresy Imperial jetbike


Alright, here's the step by step for building this model.

Warning: This is an expensive model (in bits alone) and is both time consuming and requires a bit of skill.
This is not for you if you're just starting to greenstuff and convert models. Make sure to read the directions all the way through before starting.

This tutorial was written because I couldn’t find one that was complete. This is based off a similar jetbike tutorial, but the instructions were incomplete at the time I built mine. I decided to try and accurately capture the process of building this one for anyone else who wanted to try their hand at it.

What you're going to need:
1 Space Marine bike
1 Dark Angels “winged” bike wind screen
2 Dark Eldar Reaver jetbikes
Plasticard (I use a plastic sign from the hardware store)
Assorted bits for your rider
1 Chaos Dragon weapon muzzle head
1 base of your choosing (magnetised tutorial here)

Tools:
Superglue
Greenstuff and tools
X-Acto knife and/or files (for mold lines)

Step 1:



The first thing is some modification and assembly of the main part of the bike. You'll need to trim away the front wheel housing and a little bit off the bottom of the bike to include a small portion in front of the lower muffler. The areas shaded in red are what you're trimming off. Once you've got that done, you can glue them together.


Don't forget to take care of the mold lines across the top of the bike as well. You don't want to see the seam running down the middle of the gas tank when you're done. I use superglue and I apply it liberally on this seam. That allows it to fill any gaps and flow out a bit when I squeeze the two halves together. Then I go back with my X-Acto knife and scrape away the mess and you never see it once it's painted.

Step 2:



Now's it's time to build the body of one of the Dark Eldar jetbikes. Once you have it assembled and it's had time to dry, you need to cut away the red area. All you need is the small engine piece at the bottom in the front of the bike and the exhaust port off the back.

Step 3:



Assembling the kick plate for the bike. You need to do some delicate trimming here. The solid red area gets cut away and the striped area gets trimmed down.
Once you have all that cut away, you go back and greenstuff a low step in between the two foot pedals.


This picture shows what you’re trying to build with the greenstuff step.
It (the kick plate) needs to be positioned up as close as possible to the body of the bike (A).
It (the greenstuff step) will act as a filler between the kick plate and the underside of the bike itself (B) and will be the mounting wall for the “engine” later on (C).
Do NOT attach the kick plate just yet.

Step 4:


Before you attach the kick plate, you’ll want to clean the grills off the front of the jet bike. It’s easier to do it now without all the other stuff glued in place. This front face needs to be smooth in order to mount the nose of the bike on later.

Step 5:


Time to mount the kick plate and “engine” (from the Dark Eldar jetbike) to the bottom of the body of the bike. Remember to mount the kick plate flush with the bottom of the bike (See Step 3). The engine should fit flush with the front of the kick plate.
You can also mount the handlebars onto the bike at this point.

Step 6:


Time to start on the nose of the jetbike. Taking only the TOP halves (one from each Dark Eldar bike) you’re going to assemble the nose now. You’ll need your plasticard later on.



Both halves are glued together. Match up your edges as best as possible. Once dry, fill in the holes with greenstuff and smooth them out.
Side note: You can use both BOTTOM halves to build a second jet bike later on if you want, it will have a slightly shorter nose though.

Step 7:


Time to work on the rider. Taking a the regular biker legs, you’ll need to cut them apart at the knees and remove the flex fit stuff between the armour plates. I cut along the edge of the upper leg plate and drew a line across to just under the knee cap.




Once you have your three pieces, you should be able to glue the rider’s upper legs to the seat of the bike and then work in each lower leg. Do some test fitting to make sure everything goes together smoothly before gluing. The idea is to get as snug a fit as possible between the armour plates to minimize the amount of greenstuff work you’ll need to do on his knees.


Greenstuff the bottom portion of his knees back in place to complete the illusion of him sitting with his legs back instead of forward like they were before.

Step 8:


While you still have your greenstuff out, take a little bit and fill in the opening left on the front of the jet bike by the engine.

Step 9:


Time to finish the nose of the jetbike. Take your assembled nose and cut off the back portion just behind the second armour plate. You’ll need to angle the top as well. Take your time and work slowly. If you cut off too much, you’ll have problems. You want to make sure you have a good, clean vertical cut so the nose matches up flush with the front of the bike. The angle at the top of the nose piece only needs to be enough so that it fits against the bike without a gap.
Do NOT attach the nose to the bike yet.


Time to make the fins that go inside the nose of the bike. You’ll need your plasticard and your X-Acto knife. I put three “fins” in the front of mine.
Depending on the thickness of the plasticard you use, you may need more. I would say to not use any less though or it might not look right.


I cut my first “fin” and set it in place in the center of the nose. I glued one additional “fin” to each side of that one, but made those slightly shorter than the original one in the middle. This gives them a staggered look like an air intake might have.

Step 10:



Now for the rear exhaust vent. You’ll need the piece from the Dark Eldar bike and your plasticard. Basically, you’re going to build a simple wall for the rear exhaust vent to mount on and then glue it in place.
The bottom of the wall will be braced by the back wheel “axle” and the top will need something extra to support it. I used a bit of sprue glued to the top of the wall on the inside. This gives it (the wall) some extra support.


Once you have the exhaust wall in place, you’ll need to build a small spacer so the vent can be mounted properly. I used three layers of plasticard glued together and cut out a square shape with angled corners.
Like I said, this is just a “spacer” for the actual rear exhaust vent to be glued to. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, just something to take up space.

Step 11:


Now for the windscreen. I went with the Dark Angels winged version for this bike.
The first thing you want to do is cut off the mounting tabs on the front shocks of the bike itself. This is so the screen will mount closer to the body of the bike.


Next thing to be removed is the headlight. Before mounting the guns, shave away the headlight until you have a smooth, flat surface. Once the headlight is gone, you can glue the bolters in place.


The last part is to glue the Chaos dragon muzzle in place of the headlight.

And that’s it.
Finish building your rider with whatever torso, arms and such you want and then find yourself a suitable base to mount your new jetbike on.
The two pictures below can be clicked on for larger versions.




And once again... this is not the end all tutorial for building these things. You can make any number of modifications to this to fine tune your jetbike into what you want. The overall idea of this was to document the basic steps so that people had a template to work from if they felt like they wanted to attempt a project of this size.

If you want a printable version of this tutorial, Issue 6 of The Astro Mag (pdf link) has this complete tutorial in it.


Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

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