40k 6th edition game summary charts and FAQs

While I might not get much time to play myself, I thought I might share these handy charts from the back of the new rulebook that should make it easier to learn the new edition. Of course you're going to need the rulebook to play the game as all the information is not on these summary pages, but they do give you a good bit of info and can help you pick up the new rules quickly during those first few games.

I've broken the information down into separate sections since not everyone will need all of the info. There are two downloads in this post, Game Summary and Psychic Summary in addition to a link to the new GW FAQs. As I get more time in the coming weeks and learn the new edition myself, I'll be posting my own summaries that are more like flow charts that I find super easy to follow. Until then, these should help.

Psychic Summary (Generation and Powers)
In case you don't want or need all of them and only want to download the one for your army, here are the individual power sheets:
Biomancy, Divination, Pyromancy, Telekinesis, Telepathy

Game Summary (Movement, Shooting, and Assault)
Games Workshop 6th edition FAQs

Enjoy and happy gaming!

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

27 comments:

The Deathwing symbol in freehand and decals

Freehanding the Dark Angels first company Deathwing symbol is not hard to do. At first glance it looks like a fairly complex image, but once you know how to break it down into steps, it's actually quite easy to paint.

These pictures from fellow hobbyist Adam show you how he was able to take the process I posted a while back and use it on his own Deathwing models. The end result looks great.

Freehand iconography holds a special place in my heart. Sure, I can make my own decals now and I often sculpt symbols in place now that I know how to cast shoulderpads, but there's just something cool about nicely done freehand work.

It shows a level of dedication to me. It says you're willing to invest a considerable amount of time in a very small area of your model in order to explain to me where it comes from. A big thanks to Adam for sharing his work with me and I'm glad he was able to take something from the site and put it to good use.

Since I've freehanded the design a number of times myself, I thought I'd find the symbol and create a decal sheet for those who would rather go that route. It fits a regular 8.5 by 11 inch sheet of paper and has a scale on it for other size paper as well. All you really need to do is save it to your desktop, test print it once to make sure you're all set and then repeat the process using your decal paper.
NOTE: These should be printed on clear paper.

Download the decal sheet here.

How to make your own decals
How to apply your decals to your models
7 things to remember when using decals

It's a simple jpeg image and includes enough shoulderpad symbols for 40 Terminators and 8 larger symbols you can use on Land Raider doors.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
WHEN you add freehand to a model matters
How to make your own decals or waterslide transfers

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

11 comments:

Making wood themed bases is easy to do

Making a woods themed base is much easier than I thought it was going to be. There are some things to consider when going with this theme, but I was surprised at just how quick it all came together. I'm going to show you how I made the one you see above.

What I used to create this base
GW Static grass (the bright green stuff)
Secret Weapon Minis Blasted Wetlands base
Material to represent the fallen, dead leaves
Material to represent moss and mold
Material for some taller bits of grass and such
White (PVA glue)
Material for tree stumps

I have a good bit of basing material from Secret Weapon Minis. I used a number of their products to build this base. While using their stuff makes it super easy (and I mean super easy) to do this, it would be wrong to list just them when you could do this with other materials as well... it may not be as easy, but there are options out there.

This post here talks extensively about using materials you find around your home.

Alternatives to buying the materials
The fallen, dead leaves: Secret Weapon Minis Fallen Leaves - Brown
Alternative: You can use brown construction paper and give it a variety of washes using browns and blacks to create a varied colored material. You'll want to do it on both sides of the paper though. From there, you can use your X-Acto knife to cut out a handful of leaves you can use.
I did this very thing for my first attempt at leaves on this base here.

The turf and taller grasses: Secret Weapon Minis Instant Scenery Kit Grasses
Alternative: These might be tough to replicate. You can shop around as there are a few companies out there making grasses and such. The trick is to get the color you like.

Dead tree stumps: Secret Weapon Minis Tree Stumps
Alternative: You can use small bits of shredded bark if you can get your hands on some. Take your X-Acto knife and cut one end flat for vertical stumps and break apart pieces until you get suitable sized ones for horizontal stumps.

Bases: Secret Weapon Minis Blasted Wetlands
Alternative: I will say that it's worth using the Secret Weapon Blasted Wetland bases for this though. They have the stumps already on them and it saves you a good bit of time. But... you only have tree stumps on there. Making your own might allow you to incorporate other elements like rock outcroppings and such.

You could do this with just about any base line really when I think about it. I went with the Blasted Wetlands for the "woods" look as opposed to the rock or overgrown ruins appearance.

Why woods bases can be hard to replicate
Woods can be tough to replicate because there is so much to woods that is not on the ground. Lots of times, our basing theme comes from what is on the ground. We don't show many elements that extend much higher than a foot or so in the model world. This is why woods and jungle can be harder to pull off than other basing themes like snow covered rocks. So much of what makes up "woods" is off the ground.

So we have to be spot on with the ground elements when we can't use what's around the model to help convey the atmosphere.

After looking at a few reference pics. I decided I would use a few key elements in my "woods" to create the feeling. I knew the tree stumps and fallen logs would play a big part in it. I wanted lots of dead leaves on the ground with patches of grass here and there. The last bit was some mold/fungus type growing on the dead trees.

The process
Once I had my base primed black, I gave the stumps a heavy drybrush of GW Stormvermin Fur and the ground a pass with Rhinox Hide. You could use any grey and dark brown really. Once those were dry, I started adding my vegetation.

The first thing to go down were the leaves. I covered most of the base with these as the ground in most forests is covered with them as well. On top of that in some places, I added the GW Static grass. I only added it to places I thought it would be damp enough for grass to start sprouting up and what looked good from a visual aspect (even if it was "wrong"). Places like right next to the log. That led me to the taller grass. It went in the low traffic areas and tucked into corners if you will.

When adding the material, I took my white glue(PVA) and mixed a little bit of Rhinox Hide paint directly into it so it matched the ground color and spread it around where I wanted the material to go. I went kinda heavy on the glue so I'd have enough to actually hold onto the larger material pieces. Sprinkle the material on top of the glue, shake loose the excess and move on to the next step.

With all of those pieces in place, I wanted to add some moss to the tree stumps to tie them to the ground. I also added this for a variety of textures. I thought if I could get a few in there, it might appear a bit more realistic.

I did go back and add a few more leaves in the end to get some more brown in there. You can see that not much of the original base is showing in the end.

What you need to know
This process goes quick. The base took me about 10 minutes to do (not including drying time). A whole squad could be done very quickly.

The biggest thing is doing this without your model in place. You need to do these separate from your models. Since you end up with so much material glued to the top of the base, it's important that you pin your model to the base as well for a solid connection. Simply gluing your model onto the leaves will not provide you with the support you need for gaming.

As far as varnish, I suspect you could get away with varnishing your models after you have attached them to your completed woods base. I'd be more inclined to varnish them before attaching them though just to be safe.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Basing your models with free stuff from around your home
How to make static grass stand upright

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

27 comments:

Thoughts on the new Spartan Assault Tank

With Forge World releasing their new take on the famous Spartan Land Raider, I thought I might take a look at the old one, Forge World's new version and my favorite, the good old Proteus.

UPDATED: Here are the FW Experimental rules for this monster!

After a little digging around (Wiki), I found this on its history:

The Spartan was a Land Raider variant designed during the Horus Heresy to carry a full squad of Terminator-armored Marines through the 'Ring of Death' surrounding the city of Aries Primus on Mars. The standard Land Raider at the time could not transport Terminators.

The original Spartan had the standard Land Raider armament of the day, two twin-linked lascannons (heavy bolters were not standard then) but also mounted either a heavy bolter or heavy flamer on a turret on top. It was widely spread after the Heresy, but disappeared when the standard Land Raider was re-designed to carry Terminators.

The Spartan design used today features the twin hull-mounted heavy bolters seen on contemporary Land Raider designs, as well as a pair of sponsons fitted with a quad-lascannon battery each. It is able to transport a much larger number of Space Marines in power armour.

Additionally, it is considerably faster than other Land Raider variants despite its increased size, due to its reactor-driven motive drive systems. It is unknown whether this is intended to be a different pattern to the original Spartan, or whether it has replaced it entirely in canon.

Very cool stuff. After getting the FW email, the one picture that really jumped out to me was this one below. The size comparison between a Spartan and a Proteus.

This thing is substantially bigger than it's predecessor. That's not a bad thing either. But I still don't know how I feel about the extended nose. Sometimes it looks cool and sometimes it looks funny to me. I like that they kept it similar to the old school version, but it's not enough for me to go out and buy this monster.

Truthfully, I don't think I play games big enough to warrant buying and putting this into my force. If someone wanted to use a regular Land Raider in place of this for a game, I wouldn't have any problems with that either. All in all, I'm going to say cool looking depending on how you look at her, but not something I'm going to buy.

I think for me, it's the Proteus that I'm sticking with. I've started converting a regular Land Raider chassis to look like the older version. I've got some additional bits on the way for the side sponsons as I plan on magnetizing them so I have all the options.

Mine's not really even a Proteus when you get down to it either. It'll be more like an older version of a MIIB Land Raider with exposed treads instead of covered ones. I think I shall call it a MKIIA. That way I'm safe with converting it into something I want and I can make up my background for it as I see fit.

I'm building it for two reasons, first to see if it can be done without a tremendous amount of work (so far so good) and second, for looks and the coolness factor more than anything else. Rest assured, I'll be posting the whole tutorial on how to do this conversion once I get it done. I just need the rest of my bits to arrive first.

Of course the question remains, can I make a conversion kit so that I could transform my regular land raider into a Spartan if the need arose? Maybe a little plasticard, some new doors for the front and a few magnets... interesting.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Magnetizing the Rhino STC (2 part article)
Modifying and maximizing your Rhino chassis
The definitive guide to magnetizing a drop pod

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

25 comments:

How to sculpt and mold fur cloaks and pelts

Today we're going to cover how to make fur cloaks and pelts. We're actually going to look at how you can sculpt some fur, mold it and then be able to use casts of that mold repeatedly. No more trying to sculpt the fur directly on the figure.

This is not a new trick, there's a tool already out there that does this very thing. Micro Art Studios makes a rubber mold you can buy. I remember seeing one of these a long time ago and thought it was an excellent idea for making fur. Combine that idea with my use of BluStuff, I figured I could make my own.

I'll say that the model here is a test model. He's got some mistakes and I could have done it better. The real trick was seeing if it could be done in the first place. And it most certainly can.

What you're going to need to do this
Greenstuff and sculpting tools (I only used the GW one)
BluStuff Modeling Putty
A sizable piece of plasticard to work on

Start by sculpting your fur
The first thing we need to do is sculpt the fur. This is easy enough to do. I did this on top of a piece of plasticard. Make sure to leave enough room around the edges so you can make your mold using BluStuff once you're done.

I sculpted my fur by spreading out my greenstuff (50/50mix) into a area making sure I had the same thickness all the way across. This test piece is small and if I were to do it again, I'd make it much bigger so I could cut any kind of shape out of my casts later on. This small size limits me to small sized pelts.

I used the regular GW sculpting tool for this too. Working from the bottom up, I repeatedly make small indentations into the greenstuff at a slight angle. A few to the left, a few to the right and so on and so on... Keep repeating the angled strokes all the way up the layer of greenstuff. Sometimes I'll twist the tool slightly as I press it into the greenstuff to give the fur a slight curve and not all the strands look straight.

Here's the finished piece of fur compared to a model. You can decide to make your fur strands long or short, straight or wavy and so on. Once you've got it sculpted, leave it to cure overnight.

Making the fur mold
Now we make it super easy to make lots of fur pelts from here on out. Using BluStuff, make a simple, one-piece press mold of your fur. You want your mold slightly thick and flat on the top (the side facing up and away from the fur). You want the top flat so that you can flip it over when done and it will lie flat on your desk without any issues.

Give the BluStuff plenty of time to cure (it doesn't take long actually) and you're all set to start making casts of your fur.

To make a cast, it's as simple as mixing up your greenstuff, pressing it into the mold making sure it gets into all the tiny fur strands and leaving it for about 45 minutes. I used a 50/50 mix again for my test. In this one though I only waited about a half hour and I wish I'd given it a few more minutes to harden so I didn't lose my detail so much when I removed it from the mold. Lesson learned.

Remove your greenstuff from your mold carefully and set it down on a piece of plasticard. Make sure the plasticard is lubricated with something so your greenstuff doesn't stick to it!

Take your X-Acto knife and cut out the shape of the fur you want. Very similar to making a cloak like we did in the previous post. Take your cut out piece of fur, place it on your model and set it in position. When you're cutting your fur pelt out, you'll have a top edge and a bottom edge. The top is generally a smooth line and the bottom will be a bit rougher or varied.

The picture above shows you what I mean. The shape is different, but the idea is important. The fur you sculpted hangs in one direction. You have a top and a bottom. The top is where the fur "starts" and the bottom is where it "ends." In this picture, I cut out what would be an animal arm. I could attach this to the body portion of my pelt by hanging this over the model where i wanted it. I would need to clean up the red line areas, blending the blue line are with the other portion of the pelt and then make sure the purple lined area has enough variety and a rough edge to simulate the fur strands hanging down.

For this model, since I have a small mold, I only cut out a small crescent shape pelt. The inside clean edge was to be the top (around his head) and the outside rough edge was to be the bottom (the part hanging over his shoulders).

The few things you need to make sure you do are:
1. Clean up the leading edge. You can do this by pressing your tool into the leading edge to remove the cut line and make it look like the fur comes all the way over the edge. Very easy to do.
2. Create additional texture. Just like the cloak, the greenstuff pelt will fall into place and develop some minor folds in the process. You can use your tool to exaggerate those folds and add additional recessed areas until you have the look you want.
3. Vary the bottom edge. You want to have some variety as natural fur would have. Anything to smooth or clean here and it won't look right.

Going the next step
This is only the beginning. You could take multiple pelts and piece them together for a bigger one. You could cut out different fur shapes like a leg and such to drape over shoulders. You could even layer the pelts to build up some depth and really bulk up a model. I'm sure if one pelt is good for a Space Wolf, two must be better.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to sculpt a greenstuff half tabard
How to sculpt a greenstuff cloak

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

16 comments:

How to sculpt greenstuff cloaks and capes

Sculpting greenstuff cloaks takes patience and a little bit of know how. In this post, I'm going to show you how I make regular full length cloaks. I'd planned on adding fur pelts to this post, but it was getting far too big for one post. This post covers fur.

What you're going to need (for both types of cloaks)
A good amount of greenstuff
Cooking oil or other suitable non-sticky greenstuff working agent
Your sculpting tools and X-Acto knife
Color Shapers (optional, but very helpful)
Plasticard and some cardstock (index cards work great)
BluStuff (this is for molding the additional fur pelts)

The color shapers are for sculpting and allow you to get smooth textures to your greenstuff. I use them for the smaller folds in cloth. They aren't required, but are very helpful. If all you have is the regular GW sculpting tool, you can still do this.

The BluStuff is another optional tool for the fur pelts. The idea is to sculpt your fur once and then use a mold of it to make additional fur pelts afterwards. This is much easier than trying to make them each time on the irregular surfaces of a model.

Where to start for cloaks
This tutorial looks at making the full length cloaks. If you're looking for a half tabard or something smaller, you could always try and scale this down or I have another tutorial for sculpting those here. It's a different process since it's a much smaller area you're working in when it comes to front half tabards.

The first thing you want to do is get a template of your cloak. Here is where the cardstock comes into play. Imagine how you want the cloak to sit on the model and cut out a rough shape. Keep refining the cardstock shape until it fits over the model in the shape you want it to.

It won't have all the folds in it right now and that's ok, we just want to know the basic shape we need for our greenstuff.

Getting the greenstuff ready to sculpt
Here's where you need a flat, smooth surface to work on and your release agent. It's almost as if you're rolling out dough. You need to end up with a piece of greenstuff that is flat, big enough that you can cut your cardstock template from it and consistent in its thickness. I work over a spare piece of plasticard since I know it's nice and smooth. I use the handle of my X-Acto blade like a rolling pin.

The key is to make sure you flip the greenstuff as you keep rolling it out. As you do that, make sure you have a light coat of oil on the plasticard each time... you don't want the greenstuff to stick at all to your flat surface. This is important.

I will lay out a ball of greenstuff and then keep flipping and rolling it out until I have it big enough to cut my shape from and it's roughly the same thickness all the way across. Once you have this flattened out, let it sit for 30-40 minutes (assuming a 50/50 mix of yellow/blue). Make sure you don't have any air bubbles trapped underneath your greenstuff either, those will create surface texture you don't want.

The reason you let it sit is so that you can handle it without it completely falling apart in your hands or ending up with a hundred finger prints all over it. Even letting it cure this long will require you to be very careful in handling it. Giving it about 45 minutes is enough I've found for it to begine to cure and it won't completely stretch out of shape as you begin to work with it. Remember, the thinner it is, the harder it will be to work with. You want some thickness to it so it retains its shape and folds. Too thin and you won't be able to "shape" it.

Cutting out your cloak
Once you've waited long enough, set your cardstock template on top of your greenstuff. Lay it on there gently as you don't want it to stick. Mark about where the edges are and then remove it. Now take your X-Acto blade and slowly and carefully cut out the shape from your greenstuff. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, but you want it fairly close.

When you're cutting, don't pull your blade since doing so will pull the greenstuff and create small ripples on the surface. Use more of a steady chopping motion and always keep your blade wet to reduce any sticking and pulling. The idea is to cut it out without deforming the shape of your greenstuff cloak.

Setting your cloak in place
Carefully peel up your greenstuff and position it on your model. There will be some natural folds that develop as you do this and here is where you can start creating your own folds by pushing and pulling on the greenstuff until it's in the shape you want. Take your time here. I use the back end of a paintbrush since it's smaller than my fat finger. Once you have your cloak in place, you can use your color shaper or sculpting tool to add smaller folds at connection points and places where the fabric would bind up and collect.

Letting the cloak cure in place
Once I have my smaller folds sculpted in and my cloak about how I want it to look, it's time to set it down to finish curing. I have a small spray paint cap with some poster tac on top of it that I use to position the model so the cloak hangs straight down (due to gravity) I'll set the model at the correct angle so the cloak hangs there without lying against the model and slowly picking up the shape of the model underneath it.

I also sit there and periodically check on it to make sure the folds I put into in aren't coming undone slowly. If they are, I'll push them back into position.

Some final thoughts and things to consider
On this model, there are a few things I want to point out. The first is that I did not put too much work into the top of the cloak. The reason for that is it's going to be covered up with fur later on this week. Since I'm doing that, I don't need to make sure the detail is perfect.

The second thing is the small area on the surface of the cloak with a few surface imperfections. Those are air bubbles that were trapped in the greenstuff while I was rolling it out. There are a couple ways to fix them. You can shave or sand them away before you attach the cloak to your model. If you have any dimples or cavities, they can be filled in with a little bit of liquid greenstuff.

Just fill the void, let it cure and then take a damp Q-Tip and gently rub away the excess liquid greenstuff until you have the area smooth.

An alternative method if you want really well defined folds
This method is similar to the half tabard method, only scaled up to this size. It can be a bit tricky to do since it requires such smooth sculpting to pull off. This takes considerably longer to do as a cloak will have to be done in a number of sculpting sessions and not in one pass.

This is exactly how you do the smaller half tabards, only much bigger.

Worth remembering when it comes to greenstuff cloaks
First is that this takes time. You need to be patient and let your greenstuff cure long enough so you can handle and position it without destroying it.
Second is the thickness of your cloak. It needs to be thick enough to hold its shape. Not quite 2mm or so is good. 1mm is too thin for my tastes and 2mm is getting to be on the big size. A few test runs and you'll get an idea of how thick is good for what you want on your models. And the added thickness helps when it comes to adding the smaller folds in there... you have some greenstuff on the cape to work with.

Using some kind of oil or anything to keep the greenstuff from sticking is essential. Water might work, but it's worth it to use something that will really help you when it comes to sculpting. You can always wash the model off later on.

I've got some more work to do on mine to get them in tip top shape. I'm still fine tuning the process myself. In this post here, we look at sculpting fur pelts (large enough for cloaks).

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to sculpt a greenstuff half tabard

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

19 comments:

Can anything replace the old Boltgun metal?

When GW released all their new paints, I started looking around for a new line of paint after hearing the GW metallics weren't all that good. I recently decided to do a small comparison of a few metallic colors to see how each one compared to the old Boltgun Metal.

A little background on my metallic use
I used to use the cheap stuff all the time. No problems with it at all. Sure, it wasn't the best and coverage was a little less than desirable, but I didn't know any different and it was cheap. It got the job done in the end.

Then I found GW Boltgun Metal. I became a huge fan of it overnight. From the shade of it to the coverage and the consistency. It did everything I needed it to do. Then GW revamped their paints on me. Cries of, "It's not the same!" and " The new stuff stinks!" were all I was hearing from folks I knew. Enough that I decided to go looking around before buying some of the new stuff myself.

The metallic I use today
Instead of picking up the new GW metallics, I opted to try something from the P3 paint line. I went with P3 Cold Steel. I'd used some of their golds before and I loved them. I figured the silvers would be just as nice right? And it worked just fine. I'm not a huge stickler for paint and I'll use just about anything really when it comes down to it. Then I decided to do this test to see just what the differences were.

I'm not attached to any particular brand or company either. My loyalty lies with the paint that can provide me the best coverage and consistency overall. I decided to keep my very scientific experiment here limited to "silvers." There was no way I was going to try and compare all different kinds of metallic colors. The only silver I did not get my hands on was anything from Vallejo. I would have liked to, but I couldn't find anyone who had some I could borrow for this little test.

The metals I used in this test
1. Old GW Boltgun Metal (the standard for the test)
2. The new GW Base Leadbelcher
3. P3 Cold Steel
4. Army Painter Plate Mail Metal
5. Reaper Master Core Color Honed Steel
6. DecoArt Shimmering Silver craft paint

So what did I learn?
I decided to use the old GW Boltgun Metal as the standard. All the other paints would be compared to it. I painted small swatches of each metal, made some notes on my initial impression and then put all of them into a chart that covered four aspects (coverage, thickness or body, watery and consistency).

I chose these four aspects because they made sense to me. I know they are somewhat subjective, but I'm looking to replace my old Boltgun and want to mimic the qualities it had. I want a metal that covers as well as the old Boltgun did. Thickness or how much body a paint has is important too, too thick and you start obscuring details quickly. If a paint is so watery that you end up with streaks and such, it means more layers and work. The last aspect was consistency, with an appropriate amount of shaking before use, I wanted the metal to go on the model nice and smooth.

I don't mind doing two passes to get the absolute best coverage, but I want to get the most from each pass. One pass over an area that has been primed correctly would be super nice, but I'll take what I can get.

The interesting results
A metallic color got a green checkmark if it was as good or better than the old GW Boltgun Metal and a red X if it was not as good in terms of quality in a particular category. Simple as that. I had a much more complex system, but boiled it down this... either it's as good or not.

After looking over the results, it looks like GW has been able to keep the consistency up with their new "Boltgun Metal." I'm going to be buying my own bottle of the new Leadbelcher metallic since I borrowed one for the test. The next best metallic I believe is the one from Army Painter. After that, you start sacrificing quality here and there.

I didn't get into all the different shades of silver out there and there are tons of them available. Cool metals, warm metals and so on. If you're looking for a very specific color for your painting style, then the chart might not help much. You'll need to buy what matches your need. If you're looking for a basic metal color that you can use for tabletop quality, I'd say to try the new GW or Army Painter metallics. Those are the two I'm going to look through first.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
My replacement for the old GW Charadon Granite
What to use for Devlan Mud and Badab Black now
The new GW paints on my Novamrine model

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

28 comments:

Scratchbuilt Inquisitor Mystic and tool review

Scratchbuilding this Navigator model has been something I've wanted to do for a long time. I've actually got a few models I want to try and build like this that come from images I've found in the 40k universe. After getting my hands on the new tentacle maker (I now have all three sizes) from Green Stuff Industries, I knew I was finally going to try and build this guy. Unfortunately, my scratchbuilding skills are not the best, but I think I've managed to capture a little bit of the feeling of the artwork.

I've always wanted to build a Navigator/Mystic type model with all kind of tubes and cables coming from his shell. Not something you'd see very often in an army, but something that looked super cool. I knew it would have been too hard to do without the right tools and when I got my hands on all three of the tentacle makers, I figured it was finally time to try my hand at making this guy.

I like a challenge, but this model would have been too much to try and do by hand.

The body is a Chaos Terminator torso and the rest of the bits have been collected from my bits box. When I say the rest of the bits, I mean his Eldar biker arms, the two space marine terminator hip plates and the Chaos space marine bolt pistol/grenade bit. The rest of the model is greenstuff.

This is my second attempt at "scratchbuilding" a model. My first attempt was a Tyranid Spore mine that came out pretty good for a non-Tyranid player. It was relatively easy though because of its organic characteristics. That made it a very forgiving model to try and build. I'm slowly working my way up towards a more complex model that requires a substantial bit of work, but it's going to take time.

The SAW-020 GSI Tentacle maker
I shared the WIP shots on the Green Stuff Industries blog a few weeks back to show off what I did with the tentacle maker. It was kind of fun to post it over there, I hope it shows others just what can be done with the tool.

As far as this tool goes, it's hands down my favorite one. They actually make three sizes, but I prefer the SAW-020. That one has the finest detail and is perfect for making tubes on troop models. Given my choice of this one or any other tube maker, I'll take this one any day.

The other sizes they have are slightly bigger and work better for larger models like tanks and maybe dreadnoughts. If you can get all three, do it, if you can only get one, get the SAW-020. Don't kill yourself trying to make cables by hand. I used to do it since I made so many Librarian models, but the detail you can get from this thing is superb.

Some final thoughts on the model
I didn't paint this guy out of the ordinary. My standard fair of basic colors and a good bit of weathering powders to add grime and connect him with his environment. I will say that paint hides a lot of issues on a model and can never be underestimated when it comes to improving the overall completeness of a model.

The more I look at it though, the more I see that I could fix in terms of sculpting. I wonder if that's the case will all models you scratchbuild instead of build normally. I'm still very happy with him for what he is... a test model to see if I can sculpt/build something that is not completely organic.

If you've got any questions about something in particular on the model, ask away and I'll answer them as best I can.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
GSI Tentacle Maker review
Scratchbuilt Tyranid Spore Mine conversion

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

23 comments:

How to draw skulls Forge World style

Drawing and painting skulls should not be difficult. Like most other freehand elements, if you break it down into a few simple overlapping shapes, you'll have great looking skulls in no time at all. Here's the method I use to replicate the Forge World style skulls you see on their resin bits.

You could easily modify the shape of the skull here to suit your tastes.

How to break a skull down into separate shapes
The first thing you need to do is take a good look at the area you're working in. Once it's ready to go (meaning you're at the point of adding your freehand work), you have to imagine a line across the middle of the available painting area. This is where you're going to start. You don't need to draw the line on your model, just remember it for the first part of the skull. From that, you'll build on it and your scale shouldn't change.

The skull is broken down into 5 parts. The head, nose, eyes, cheekbones and jaw. We're going to start with the head and add those other parts on top of it in a particular order so that we "build" our skull and it stays symmetrical and balanced.

The head is nothing more than a simple circle. It should extend slightly below that imaginary line we have across the middle of our work area.

The nose is made up of two small triangles that are placed at the bottom of the circle in the middle.

The eyes are two more triangles placed one on each side of the nose along the bottom of the circle as well.

The cheekbones are maybe the hardest part of this whole thing since they are not an exact shape like a circle or triangle but more like protrusions out from each side of the head. They stick out at an angle from each eye. You can make them any shape you want really.

And the jaw. It's an extension of the head that comes down slightly and is angled. Think of it as a square that is resting on one if its corners.

Adding a bit more detail to your skull
Once you have the basic shapes blocked in, you can go back and do a little highlighting and shading to give the skull some texture and depth if you want. Of course you can always leave it simple and one color as though it's been stenciled onto the vehicle as a kill marking or such.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
How to draw Librarian heraldry

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

19 comments:

Making your Space Marine Captain stand out

Making your HQ model stand out is something we all strive to do in some way or another. Whether it be a slightly taller base or a much embellished model, making your force commander stand out on the tabletop can do nothing but add to the look of your army.

Forge World carefully explains to us what a true Space Marine Captain is:
Each Company in a Space Marine Chapter falls under the command of a Captain, a hardened veteran and a master strategist. These lords of war read the battlefield’s ebb and flow with enhanced reflexes and a post-human grasp of the ever-changing arena of combat in which they spend their lives.
Right, right, right, but how do we translate that over to our model? Sounds good on paper, but how do we make it look good on a miniature?

Fantasy armies do it all the time, they have the rank and file troops and then a gorgeous centerpiece type commander to lead the whole thing. Wit Forge World releasing a very nice Captain model as seen above along with an accompanying Standard Bearer, I thought I might take a look at the idea of making your commander "stand out" from the rest of your army.

It doesn't take much to make your commander stand out
You can make your commander stand out by doing any number of things to him. Starting at the top and working down, let's look at a few simple things you can add to your model to separate him from the rank and file.

The helmet
This is an easy one. Some folks opt for the helmetless look as well to designate an officer. Yes, Space Marines are tough enough to go without their helmet in the most dire conditions. Besides, it looks cool and people can see your nice hair.

You can order any kind of helmet under the sun from online bits providers too. I get the individual bits I use from Spikey Bits. Get yourself an older MK helmet and you're all set. You can look at modifying the existing helmet your commander is sporting. Roman style helmet crests are a great way to give a model a very unique look. It's not just for Ultramarines either. Secret Weapon minis has a handful of these crests that you can attach right to your commander's helmet. You can make them, but for the work it takes, you're far better off buying them and saving yourself the trouble.

If you're a fan of the helmetless look, then facial hair (especially for Space Wolf players) can set your Captain apart from the younger, less experienced officers. You can sculpt just about any kind of facial hair if you know where to start.
Not interested in sculpting, then you can faux paint a shaved head for the monastery look as well.

Clothes make the man
Changing the armour or adding things to it can make a huge difference as well. A simple shoulderpad swap for something more ornate can often make the difference with minimal work involved.

You can add things like half tabards or even the leather strap ones seen in the picture above. Those require a bit of sculpting skill, but are not impossible to pull off and change the look of a model immediately.

Exotic weaponry helps
The rank and file guys get standard issue. The important guys have the good stuff. Adding a scope to a gun or changing out the weapon to something like a combi-weapon can give your captain a distinguished look. When it comes to close combat weapons like power weapons, you can try something different there too, maybe something from another line or a combination of two weapons to give it a unique look.

Nothing more than a weapon and head swap

It doesn't have to be complex
Sometimes the best conversions are the most simple. A weapon swap, a different head or a set of shoulderpads changed out. That combined with a nice paint job and a detailed base go a long way towards making a model stand out from the rest of the force.

A while back, I put together a three part series that asked, "Did I build and Paint my HQ wrong?" It looks at why your painting and modeling matter and then some tactics for using your HQ. I know, there are no tactics on this blog, but I went all out for that series since it made sense to explain it through.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Did I paint and model my HQ the right way?

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

19 comments: