How to highlight with a different hue

Most of the time, when we highlight our models, we use the same color or a color that's a shade lighter than our previous one. The idea of using a completely different color to highlight a portion of a model is not something most people think about... it doesn't even make sense at first thought really. But it's how you get a variety of colors into a portion of a model and really bring it to life.

how to highlight a faceAs a real quick example, I'll use a face.
We paint with GW Dwarf Felsh, wash with GW Devlan Mud, clean up our basecoat and then give it a quick highlight with GW Elf Flesh. It's a quick process that yields good results and there's nothing wrong with it. But it lacks the "life"and color variety a real face will have.

Why? Because the process above uses all browns of varying degrees. There are no other colors in there.

In the real world, there will be a variety of colors throughout the highlights and shadow areas based on the kind of lighting the object is subjected to. What follows is an explanation of what I do when I highlight my models with different colors and break out of the "all brown" process of highlighting a face.

So why the super complex painting post with no real application?
This whole thing started when Nick from IDICBeer 40k emailed me and asked about highlighting hair on a model of his. I bet he wishes he'd asked someone else now.

When Nick first emailed me, he wanted to duplicate a certain kind of red hair. Could he have simply painted it red, gave it a quick wash and then hit it with a light red highlight? Sure, and it would have looked pretty good.
But... he wanted the hair to look a certain way and that's how I got into explaining this technique to him. The shadows in the hair were a bit of a brown color and the highlights were more of a red. I tried to explain how I would get that effect on the model. That's his model at the top of the post showing how he put all this to use.

If he'd just gone the standard route, he wouldn't have been able to get the variety in colors he wanted and he would have ended up close, but not really there in terms of a match. Using an approach like this can help you get more color into a model and get those subtle variations and shifts in color that you just can't get by using one color and a wash.

Some really, really simple color theory stuff
Before we get started though, we have two things we need to make sure everyone understands so we can use the terminology throughout and we don't lose anyone.
The two things are HUE and VALUE.

Colors can be thought of as having both a hue and a value.

Hue is the correct way to describe the color itself, red, orange, yellow, green, etc.
In the case of different brands of paint, the colors or more appropriately, the hues are called cool sounding things like "Scab Red, Dheneb Stone, etc."

Value is the relative lightness or darkness of a particular hue.
Think of value as a scale of 0 to 10. White would be "0" and black would be "10" and each hue will have it's own individual value somewhere on that scale. We can find a hue's value by converting it into a grey and seeing where it falls on that scale.

GW color hue and value comparison

Looking at the few colors I picked above, we can see that each one is a different hue and has a different value (when converted to grey). Bleached bone is a particular hue and it has a particular value. These are not going to change unless we do something to the paint like mix in another color that will change the hue, the value or both.

We say the value of a certain hue is relative because it depends on what the hue is compared to. Bleached Bone's value is "light" when compared to Ultramarine Blue's value, but put Bleached Bone next to Skull White and now it's value appears a bit darker. Bleached Bone's value hasn't changed, it's just relative to what's around it.

Real simple, hue and value. Now that we have that out of the way, let's look at the practical application of highlighting with a different color.

The actual process of highlighting with a different color
Now that we're determined to get more color into our model and introduce some great color variations, the real trick is in getting and using the correct colors.

It all comes down to this...
If you want to change your hue, you need to have the same value.
So let's look at a real world example of what I mean then. Nick went through the process using this Eldar weapon as his test piece before starting work on the hair on his model. The goal was to have a rich brown shadow color with a nice red highlight color.

The base color is GW Vermin Brown. From there it was washed once with GW Devlan Mud and once with Baal Red. This gave us the starting point and created the dark brown that Nick wanted in the recessed areas of the hair.

The numbers below correspond to the numbered blocks in the picture. The inset picture of the weapon is what it looked like prior to the Devlan Mud and Baal Red washes.

1. This color block represents the color we started out with (Vermin Brown). It may be off slightly because I sampled it from the photo.

2. This color block (the back one) is the color we ended up with after adding the Devlan Mud and Baal Red wash. Both the hue has changed and so has the value due to the washes. It's hue went from an orange to more of a brown. It's value also got darker. This is the color we are going to try and match in terms of value but change the hue from here on out.

The next two offset color blocks in number 2 are possible highlight choices:

If you look at the first offset (the middle block) color patch, you can see that this color is more "red" meaning it's hue has changed, but we don't know about the value.

The second offset (the front block) color patch is another red, a bit lighter, but we don't know about the value of this one either just yet.

Before we can pick the correct red from the two offset color blocks in number 2, we need to look at just their values and how it compares to our base color value (the Vermin Brown that has been washed).

3. This one shows the correct red we would use. It's a duplicate of the first offset (the middle block) color patch in number two. If you look at the upper left quadrant, you can see our created brown color we are trying to match in terms of value.
The lower left quadrant shows the new hue (the red we want to use). The right hand side shows both colors if we remove the hue and all that remains is the value alone. You can see the upper right and lower right quadrants almost match exactly in terms of value. They are the same grey.

This means we can paint this particular "red" right over our gun and it would look as though we have a red gun that shifts in color to a nice brown and then to a dark brown in the shadowed areas.

4. This is not the other offest block in number 2, but what would happen if we used a wrong "red". The upper left quadrant is our created brown color again. The lower left is a new red we thought might work but it turns out to be too dark. How do we know for sure?
If we look at the right half of the square, we can see both colors with the hue removed and the values are different. If we were to use this color, we would be adding a color that is too dark to pull off the change that we want. We would look as though we are adding another shadow color to the model instead of trying to just alter the color and create a highlight.

Nick's use of this technique on his model

So how do we apply it?
We take the correct "red" that has the hue we want and is the same value as our created brown and do a nice line highlight. Just like you'd do a regular line highlight on a model.
This color will not have the variation that the brown has and it will be a bit cleaner (because we did not create it by shading) and so it will appear to show the viewer the actual color of the piece in question.

We get to keep our nice, rich colored shadow areas and add a slightly different highlight color to give the hair a unique look. It looks like it's now red, but has some rich brown shading to it.

In the end
This is a fairly big post for a small idea. The whole thing boils down to understanding the idea of value and learning how to match the different values that come with different colors.

Is this an approach you'll use on every model? Nope.
It's a case specific thing. I used it extensively on a Deathwing squad recently. The idea was again to keep the values consistent, but alter the hues to make the armour look as though it was lit under a certain style of lighting.

You don't always have to use your base color or just a "lighter version" of it when it comes to highlighting. With a little bit of work and understanding of value, you can shift your highlights around and create some really cool color combinations.

You can see how Nick did with his model here after trying this approach in order to get a subtle change in the highlights on one of his models.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

5 comments:

Making your own weathering powders

Making your own weathering powders

As part of the General Nemo Warmachine model I was working on the other week, I thought I might try my hand at making my own weathering powders. On a recent visit to my local craft store, I found a small set of pastels that had the perfect colors for just this experiment.

This whole thing started because I was looking for a light grey powder color and wanted to see if I could save a bit of money by making my own. Forge World has a Grey Ash colored weathering powder, but it looked a little too warm for my liking. I'd love to hear from anyone who has used that particular color though. When I found the pastels in the craft store, I figured I was in business.

I remember reading somewhere that you do NOT want to use oil pastels because they won't work like regular pastels that you can shave or grind up into a fine powder. I made sure I had the right kind before buying them.

Keep in mind, I bought these a while ago and they've been sitting on my desk ever since... it wasn't until this project that I broke them out to see how they'd do.

My normal weathering powder set up
I was told that you should have a few varaitions of each color for variety. Things like black don't count, but your browns and such is where it matters. This is definitely true. Being able to apply a variety of colors really helps with the realism on your models.

weathering powders

My normal setup looks like this. I open all my powders up and set them aside. I grab my "custom" weathering brushes that I made by taking some of my old brushes and cutting the tips off (in effect making them into soft stipple brushes). I have a few different sizes depending on how big of an area I want to cover. The real big brush with the blue handle is for dusting off the excess powder in the end.

I also work on top of a sheet of paper that catches all the loose powder as it falls. It makes it easier to clean up in the end. Now the powders I use are from Secret Weapon Miniatures. I went through and picked up a handful of browns I though could be used for things like dirt and rust effects along with black for good measure.

And then I tried to make my own from pastels
Since I wanted to test out my new grey "weathering powder," I broke open my pastel sticks and grabbed my X-Acto blade. I started scraping off some of the stick into a small pile on my desk. So far so good.

I grabbed a brush and started applying it to the model just like I do with all the other"real" powders. That's when I realised making your own is not as good as buying the real stuff.

My homemade powder doesn't stick anywhere near as well as the real ones do. There was no pigment left on the model even after a couple of attempts at applying it. Then I gave up. In hindsight, I might have tried grinding the pastel up even finer, but I figured I did a pretty good job the first time carefully scraping it away.

Talk about disappointment.

I stood there for a minute trying to remember how much I'd spent on the pastel sticks that were supposed to save me lots of money. Thankfully, I don't think I spent that much on them. It's a good thing I bought the small pack with only four sticks in it and didn't get the huge assortment like I was thinking about doing.

So which is better?
Save yourself the headache and buy the real thing. Trying to make your own really only results in a mess and money wasted that could have been spent on actual powders. I know the real ones can get a little pricey... and all of them are like that it seems.

It adds up fast especially when you want to pick up two or three variations of each color so you have plenty of variety. I will say they are like static grass though. One tub (or jar) will last you your whole life unless you're cranking out a complete footslogging Imperial Guard army every other month.

As for me, I'm sticking to the real ones and saving my money until I have enough for a good light grey powder. Anyone have any recommendations?

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Weathering Powders Part 1 and Part 2

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

21 comments:

Do you waffle on color schemes like I do?

Howling Griffon Terminator

For as simple a model as this guy is, I really like how he came out. Sure, my army is Deathwing and this guy is a Howling Griffon, but it's deciding on a particular color scheme that is giving me the most trouble.

I can't be the only one who goes back and forth between color schemes trying to decide which one to go with. I figure I've got it easy too, I'm working with official background colors schemes and not making up my own. I can't imagine this process if I were trying to create a color scheme from scratch like some folks do with DIY armies.

When it comes to my Deathwing, I really do like both schemes. And I'm not looking to turn this post into one of those "what should I do" posts. I'm more curious to see how you all decide your color schemes.

I guess for some folks, it's fairly straight forward. You know, Orks are green. But even then, you have different shades and then there is the task of picking which clan you want to go with. Now that I think about it, all the armies have choices you need to make. Even bugs need a color scheme. That didn't help my point.

I love the background of the Dark Angels and the idea of the Deathwing. I think I find their history before they were universally known as the "Deathwing" to be a bit more interesting though. They were the same guys doing the same work... just without the fame.

I worked through how I would do it if I were to paint them black and I've worked through the bone scheme as well, but I'm still left trying to decide at what point in the chapter's history I should settle on.

Deathwing bone armour terminator

I know that picking a particular scheme will bring all the associated baggage with it, but I don't know if I'm worried about that as much as I am creating something unique and cool looking. I'd say the main purpose is to create a good looking army over an effective tabletop force. I plan on building it so I can play games with it, but I'd like to be more of a conversation piece than anything else.

Maybe I'm doomed in my hunt because I don't plan on doing a ton of conversion work to the army. I'd like to keep it simple if at all possible. Of course that means the painting is going to have to carry the army if I don't use my conversion work to help me.

So what's the trick to picking a scheme? Am I crazy for trying to find a spot in the official background to plant my army? I know others have done it. I'm just curious to know how you all settled on your final color scheme, especially if you had more than one you really liked and had to choose between them.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
5 things to make your army stand out
Finding an army that fits you

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

13 comments:

Basics: Line highlighting optional method

line highlighting with side of paintbrush

As a follow up to yesterday's post on line highlighting, it was mentioned in the comments that it's possible to use the side of your paintbrush to highlight the edges of your model.

This is absolutely true. But... there are a few things you'll want to make note of before trying this particular approach.

Tips for line highlighting with the edge of your brush:

1. Stray bristles are problematic.
You should already be working with a good paintbrush for this so you won't need to worry about stray bristles that stick out from the sides. If you happen to have one or two, cut them away before giving this a go.

2. Pressure is everything here.
Using this method, you really need to be aware of how much pressure you are applying to your brush and on the model. Too much and the paint will spread down both sides of what you're trying to highlight.

3. Watch the tip of your brush!
This may be the biggest one. Even though you're using the side of your brush (and most likely up near the tip) you need to be careful you don't hit any other parts of the model with your brush tip while you're working.

4. Make sure your paint consistency is correct.
This is up there with watching the tip of your brush. The previous method is somewhat forgiving, but this approach really does require you to have a good consistency of paint so that it goes on just right.

5. Check the model's edge first.
And last but not least, some model edges are just not made for this approach. The best ones are the super sharp edges. If it's the least bit rounded, you'll end up with a wide highlight and not the crisp one you want.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Basics: Line highlighting made simple

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

4 comments:

Basics: Line highlighting made simple

How to line highlight example

Line highlighting can be easy if you take a few steps in the beginning and set yourself up for success. Part of it is knowing what to do before you get to the highlighting stage and the other part is taking your time once you get there.

That's not to say it will take you forever to line highlight a model, but as with any aspect of painting, it takes some time to get really nice results. Sure, your bigger models will take longer and if you're sloppy, you'll have to go behind and clean it up. But... the end result is definitely worth it.

So what tools do you need?
Aside from paints, there is one thing you really do need to have. That's a good quality paintbrush with a fine tip. If you find yourself sitting there trying to think if you have any of these in your collection... you don't. And if you think you can use your basecoating brush to do your fine highight work, you can't. You really ought to pick up a better quality brush, take good care of it and use it for this purpose only. Once you have a good one, you know you've got it.

It might seem a bit much, but having a good brush to do this will make it easier. Believe me, trying to do this with an old brush with a bad tip will only cause you more problems than it's worth.

I have my views on what constitutes a good brush and I recommend folks look around and find what works best for them.
Here's the process I went through to find a good brush.

I'm not going to get into paint consistencies other than to say you can thin your paints to the point you feel comfortable working with them. I do it slightly with most of mine. Notice I said most of mine as I have some paints I don't thin at all. It all depends on what color/brand I'm using. This is a personal preference thing.

What thinning really does to your paints is make them flow off the brush and onto the model a bit easier and you don't have to press down as hard on the model with the brush to get the paint onto it. It will take some experimenting on your part to find what paint "consistency" works best for you.

line highlighting prep work
Now what kind of shading should I do?

What do I need to do before I line highlight?
Basically it comes down to getting your model ready. Priming, basecoating and shading. Those are what you need to have done. For me, line highlighting is the final step. In my example here, I've used an Eldar Guardian since he has quite a few armour plates for me to practice on. Once your model is ready, you'll have one of two situations you'll be faced with as you start your line highlighting.

It will depend on how you shaded your model that will determine what you're faced with. Why does this matter? Because ideally we'd like to be able to go behind our work and clean it up as needed to get the best effect. Depending on what you did up to this point, it could be impossible or it could be a piece of cake.

line highlighting over varied background

Subtle surface color variations = no "invisible" correcting
If you've covered the surface or section to be line highlighted with a wash or any effect that has darkend the entire surface and created subtle variations in surface color, you'll have a difficult time cleaning up your work.

You won't be able to go back with your basecoat and clean up any mistakes you make while highlighting without seeing your attempts to fix your mistakes. Look at the photo above, on the left, you can see the highlight along the edge and where I made a mistake. On the right, you can see where I tried to fix it with the base color. It ends up looking like a thin highlight with a fat line next to it.

line highlighting over consistent base

No surface color variations = correcting is possible AND invisible
If you take the previous example and make one of two changes...

1. You keep your wash limited to the recessed areas only
2. You go back over your surface areas with your base color after washing leaving the wash in the recessed areas only

... you'll be able to make corrections as you line highlight your model.

How do you make corrections then?
You make corrections to your line highlighting by going back in with your original basecolor and cleaning up any stray marks or painting along side your highlight in order to make it even thinner and more crisp along the edge. This works if you've kept your shading to the recessed areas only or already went back in and repainted your base color so you're highlighting on a consistent colored surface.

In some cases where you have the subtle variations across a surface and you make a "mistake" while line highlighting, you can erase your mistake if you quickly rinse out your brush, leave a little excess water in it and then try to wipe or scrub away the stray mark. This will work most of the time. Of course it won't work on that one character model you've got a hundred hours into if you're anything like me.

But how do I paint my line highlights in the first place?
When it comes to painting your line highlights, you want to make sure you do a couple of things.

warhammer 40k paint on paintbrush

1. Do NOT load the brush up to the very top of the bristles with paint.
I use very little paint on the very tip of the brush and after a few strokes, I rinse out my brush and start over. This keeps the paint from drying in the tip of the brush and making my lines too large.

warhmammer 40k paintbrush stroke path

2. Make sure your strokes go in the correct direction
I always start away from me and pull back towards me. Do not try and push the brush to the left or right or even worse... away from you. You want to be able to apply a consistent pressure (to keep the line the same thickness) and pull it towards you for a smooth line.

warhammer 40k proper paintbrush painting angle

3. Hold your brush at the "proper" angle.
This is perhaps the biggest thing. How you hold your brush matters. You want to "pull" your brush along the surface and not stab or poke at the model. We want to be able to apply a slight amount of pressure (like normal) and drag just the tip of the brush along the edge we want to highlight.

4. Don't try to do it all in one pass.
This ties in with the first part. We aren't going to line highlight the whole model in one go. It will take a number of smaller strokes. In the photo above, you can see the starting points for each stroke (the dot) and the direction the highlight is pulled. Remember to hold your brush and the model so that you maintain the correct angle as well!

warhammer 40k line highlighting eldar example

And here's the armour after some cleanup work
You can see that by repainting the armour plates with the base color (or limiting my washes to the recessed areas only), I can go back in with my original base color and clean up my stray marks. It took a bit longer to do the model like this since I had to apply my wash carefully and then clean up the armour before highlighting, but the look is much more "finished."

How to line highlight example

Applying the line highlighting effect to other parts of the model
Here you can see the gun has been given the same treatment as the armour. It started as a base of GW Dheneb Stone. I carefully applied a GW Ogryn Flesh wash to the recessed areas only. After that dried, I went back with the base color and cleaned up the weapon. This gave me a nice, clean and consistent surface to apply my line highlights to. I took P3 Menoth White Highlight and went over the prominent edges to define the shape of the weapon.

Even following the tips above, it's going to take some practice to get the feel for line highlighting. You'll get a feel for how much pressure you need to use, how long of a line you can put down in one stroke, where to start each stroke, etc.

And the more you practice, the faster you'll get at it too. The first few times, it's going to add a substantial amount of time to your painting. After a while, it will get faster and it won't add much time at all.

NOTE: Since it was mentioned in the comments, I did a follow-up post that talks about using the side of your brush to line or edge highlight and some of the things to watch out for when trying that technique.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Holding onto your model so you can get the best painting results
Using the side of your brush to edge highlight

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

23 comments:

Warmachine General Nemo completed

Cygnar General Nemo

And here he is, the finished model. After a few days of painting, I think I was able to come fairly close to the artwork and the picture in the Cygnar book.

He was a challenge to paint for a number of reasons. The first one being that it's the very first Warmachine model I've ever done. They (or at least this one) seem to be slightly smaller than your regular GW model. Because of this, there aren't the wide open spaces I'm used to painting on. It meant a bit more brush control for me.

This guy has a good amount of detail too. It might be that he's a character model. It's not out of the ordinary for character models to be loaded with detail though regardless of the game system I bet. Sometimes they can be easier to paint than normal models since all you need to do is work on small sections at a time.

Cygnar General Nemo

You can barely see the stonework in the base since most of it is covered with the large metal object he's standing on, the static grass and a bit of sand. I did try and blend the model into the base using weathering powders. I even went as far as to add a touch of GW Devlan Mud to the static grass to help it blend in and so it wasn't the one color it comes out of the tub as across thwe whole model.

Another effect (that's almost lost) is the verdigris on the metal block he's standing on. It was done with a thinned wash of GW Hawk Turquiose over a base coat of Tin Bitz. After it dried, I went back over and drybrushed a slightly lighter bronze color over the edges to show it had been worn back down to the bare metal. I think it looks cool, I just need to push the effect a little further next time so it isn't lost on the model.

I kept the glowing effect to a minimum on this guy too. There are a few more areas on the real model that are glowing. I opted out of those ande decied to focus on the ones I could do to the best of my ability. That and I was worried it might be too much after the mishap with my Terminator Librarian where went way overboard with the OSL and then had to repaint a good portion of him to tone it down.

I'm glad I got a chance to try my hand at painting him, it was quite the challenge.

My Project Link: Warmachine: General Adept Nemo

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

17 comments:

Warmachine General Adept Nemo WIP

Cygnar General Adept Nemo primed

I started work on this guy the other day and after getting his base built, I assembled him and primed him. I opted for the light grey primer after seeing how much white (more like lighter colored areas) was on the model.

I know you can't see it, but I took the recessed area inside the lip of the base and filled it with greenstuff and sculpted a stonework pattern in there. Not much shows after attaching the model, but it's enough to tie this guy to the rest of the force that was put onto resin bases.

I had planned on priming him with a rust brown color in order to give him that rusted feel by allowing it to show through in the deepest recesses. The only trouble with that was the brown would have been dark enough to require me to do a number of basecoats to get the white areas smooth and consistent again.

Cygnar General Adept Nemo primed and washed

Since I wasn't too keen on painting a hundred layers to get all the white areas back up to white, I cheated a bit. I went with the light grey primer to make painting the white easy and then gave the whole model a wash of thinned GW Calthan Brown. This collected in the recessed areas but still left the majority of the model light colored. Enough to make my work easier.

When it came to painting him, it's not like I was working on a regular Space Marine. I really had to stop and think about how I was going to do it and how I was going to try and make it as easy as possible. I did not want to paint a section only to find out it made painting the next portion incredibly difficult.

I ended up working from the inside out like I normally do. That allows me to clean up areas as I go along. In this case, I also started at the bottom first and painted that area separate. It meant having to to the blue armour in two sections along with the white, but it made it easier for me in the end.

Cygnar General Adept Nemo WIP

I finished everything from the waist down and then worked on the upper portion of the model. This is the first model I've ever painted like that. I think it's because of the cape he has that goes all the way around his waist. If I'd have painted the blue above it at the same time I painted his legs, it would have made it tough to get the cape done. I would have had to watch my brush strokes so I didn't get anything on the finished blue areas above and below it.

The blue on the model started out as GW Enchanted Blue that I worked up through two more colors (brand-X paints). I finished it off with a thin line highlight along the prominent edges and a few passes of GW Asurmen Blue wash in the recessed areas for some contrast.

You can see where I've worked up some of the white areas as well. Using thinned GW Skull White, I made a few passes over each area keeping in mind where the light source was. I left the lower (shaded) areas the original grey with the brown wash showing to give the white areas some overall color.

Once I had the blue and white down (which made up the majority of the model) I started in one the smaller elements like the metallics and object source lighting. The base was left for last since it would get the most weathering and I wasn't sure I could match the effect in the picture I had to be honest.

My Project Link: Warmachine: General Adept Nemo

Make sure to check out this posts as it might help:
Working with light colored primer on models

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

7 comments:

My very first Warmachine model

Warmachine Cygnar book cover
Image from Privateer Press.

A few weeks ago now, a friend of mine and employee from my FLGS (Game Vault) sent me an email asking for a favor. Part of the email is below:

...I was wondering if you could help me in a really big way. One of our employees past away this last December and he was a very close friend of mine. The week before he passed he handed me a stack of Warmachine miniatures, he and I were going to paint them and work on them together, that would be the last time I saw him. That bag of stuff has been sitting in my station at work for the past 6 months just eating at me.

Bob suffered a heart attack when he was home alone, and it truly was a tragedy, he was only 35 years old. Because of this I wanted to set up for the next big event in the store, I wanted to finish up these models and have them auctioned off, with the proceeds going to the American heart association in his name...

What else is there to say to a request like this? I know Matt and he's gone out of his way on a number of occasions to help me both as a friend and an employee of Game Vault. He's always been willing to get me whatever I needed even if it meant giving something of his when the store was out.

I think my reply was two sentences and consisted of something like "Don't think twice about it" and "When can I come get the model from you?"

And that brings me to where I am now. I have this killer looking Warmachine model to paint. Apparently he's some HQ type model and is quite powerful. This is what I get after looking through the book about him. His name is Nemo. Actually it's General Adept Nemo to be exact.

Since I have no idea how to paint this guy, I went looking and found this image.

Image from Privateer Press

Quite the interesting looking fellow if I do say so. Very old and lots of lightning effects all over him. This guy is going to be a real challenge to do well. It's definitely going to put my OSL skills to use.

I'll get to do some weathering along the bottom and I told Matt I'd sculpt some paving stones on the base to mimic what he was doing with the rest of the army as well. My hope is to get him to match the color scheme in the picture. I suspect I can get him close and hopefully it will work out well enough for the army.

You can see the follow-up WIP post here.

My Project Link: Warmachine: General Adept Nemo

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Back to Basics: Painting blue armour

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

11 comments:

Deathwing Squad WIP

Deathwing bone armour painted scheme

I painted the test model for this squad a while ago. So long ago that I had to go back to my first post and look at how to paint them. If I didn't blog, I don't know how I would keep track of painting recipes.

Would you believe that I'm using a bit of an assembly line process for these guys. I've got them all primed along with most of the shadowing done. Now I'm working on getting their armour finished before I go back and add the final edge highlight and deep shadows in key places.

Deathwing terminator bone armour shadows

These guys have their shadows done and are patiently waiting for their turn at the armour paint shop to get their color added.

I seem to be moving fairly quick through them. At this point, it takes just over two hours to get one of them completed to the point where I'd say his armour is painted. I figure it will be about three or four hours total for each guy in the end once I add all the smaller details onto that.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Painting Deathwing the slow and painful way

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

15 comments:

My top 5 favorite sculpts

Space Marine Terminator Librarian
Images from Games Workshop.

After the great response I got from my post on my top five color schemes, I though it would be cool to share my favorite sculpts. Basically, these are the models I love just becasue of their poses. Being able to paint them is an added bonus and I could be tempted to pick them up for just that reason.

It bears mentioning again that most of my time is spent in power armoured circles, so my choices reflect that a bit. Although I did branch out a little more here than I did with my color schemes.

1. Space Marine Librarian in Terminator Armour
Hands down, my all time favorite model. The detail, the pose... this model captures what I think a Librarian should look like and how I envision them in the 40k world. I mean who can't love this hulk of a model with all the extra stuff attached to him that isn't anywhere near practical on the battlefield of the 41st millenium?

I love everything about this model and want to include it in my next army for no other reason than the pose.

Old School Grey Knight terminator

2. Old School Grey Knight Terminator
Back when Grey Knights were tough. They have a great Codex now, but their background leaves me wanting these days. These guys are what Grey Knights should look like... not just like more Marines.

I love all the ornate details on the armour. It fits with the background as I want to remember it. Back when you didn't see whole armies of these guys, but a single squad sent to deal with whatever problem you may have.

Chaos Terminator Lord3. Chaos Terminator Lord
I remember seeing this one in a friend's army and fell in love with the model immediately. This guy captures Chaos for me.

Lots of times with Chaos models you see the standard assortment of spikes and pointy things, but his guys has some kind of horns mounted to his chestplate.

The handful of skulls that dangle from his belt buckle are an added bonus.

Space Marine Chaplain4. Space Marine Chaplain

To be honest, I'm not sure this model needs an explanation. To field this model is to make a statement.

Like other sculpts, I think he embodies the background of the model. It's not just another action pose, it's something unique here. These kinds of poses capture a moment better than the standard action pose does.

And last but not least is a model from the Fantasy range. The moment I saw this guy in a White Dwarf I was hooked.

Empire Warrior Priest

5. Empire Warrior Priest with Additional Hand Weapon
I even went so far as to build my own version of this for my Black Templars and used him for a while as my Emperors Champion. Quite the stretch I know for "counts as," but my opponents were willing to indulge me.

And there you have it. Looking back, my selection is quite limited as I've left out so many other armies and model ranges. But I've kept this to the few models that have caught my eye over time.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

14 comments:

Red Scorpion Veteran Sergeant

Red Scorpions Veteran Sergeant

While I don't do many contests, I've always wanted to try my hand at painting up a Red Scorpion Space Marine. They have a very simple and cool looking color scheme I think. There's just something about grey armour with a single accent color. It always looks so sharp.

After finding out that Jack from over at Red's Corps Red Scorpions was holding a small contest to create a Red Scorpion Space Marine character, I figured this was the perfect excuse to try my hand at painting one up.

The contest requires you to make up your model's stats and I'm not sure how well I'm going to do with that aspect. But, I like to think my painting turned out well enough. And really, all this is my weak excuse to paint one of these guys up in the first place.

Finding background information to work from
The first thing I did was head to my Imperial Armour books to see what I could dig up about these guys so my model fit in with what was already being put out there. I remembered seeing them in IA6 where they made an appearance on Vraks.

After looking through the book, I decided that's where I would set my character in terms of history (modeling and painting) and then I'd build the rules from the story I came up with. I still haven't come up with my rules for this guy yet, but I'm not worried, I still have some time left to work that part out.

Red Scorpions Veteran Sergeant

Why just a Veteran Sergeant?
I went with this lower profile for a couple reasons. First, I like the idea of senior troops leading Tactical squads. On top of that, the Red Scorpions have a tendency to replace their Sergeants with Apothecaries. It's an upgrade you can buy using the Forge World rules for them. I opted out of the Apothecary upgrade and went for the traditional Sergeant look for this guy.

Most of all though, it's what I had spare bits to make. That's what it came down to in the end. I was lucky I had the right kind of helmet to use otherwise I might have passed on this whole project all together.

Builing the model
Using Vraks as my stage, I built my Veteran Sergeant to fit the story (and bits) I had available. I went with the classic chainsword and plasma pistol combination. I didn't have the older MK arour chest plate I would have liked to include, so I had to go with a basic one instead.

I did use a set of running legs I had lying around to give him some movement like he is charging forward leading his men.

Red Scorpions Veteran Sergeant

Painting the model
Just like any other chapter with grey armour, there are a hunderd different ways you can go about it. Do you want light or dark, warm or cool looking, strong highlights or subtle and the list goes one. I decided on a slightly darker and muted armour scheme against a high contrast base color. That's fancy talk for I painted him to look like the picture in the Imperial Amrour book and I wanted to use a killer red weathering powder so I needed an excure to do that too.

Knowing that his sole purpose was to paint him for fun, I finished him off in a quick evening of painting. I did go all out on the weathering though to give him the gritty look I like. Some chipped paint here and there with weathering powders (from Secret Weapon Miniatures) and he came right to life.

Make sure to check out these posts as they might help:
Weathering powders, a two part series on using them
Weathering with sponges, a comparison

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

20 comments: