40k Counters and Markers

warhammer 40k game counters

General Gaming Counters
I think most all of us already have this kind of stuff or we already have a method for making sure we don't forget things.

When I started playing my Templar, I would just place a pair of dice next to a unit that I needed to make a Zeal check for. This worked the majority of the time. But there is alot of dice rolling around on the table generally and it's been more than one occassion that I've forgotten to zeal forward.

So I came up with these. They are quite simple really, I went to Michael's craft store and picked up some small wooden disks about that are right around 1 inch in diameter and made these counters to remind when a unit has to zeal.

I made the image on my computer, I suppose any drawing program would work though. I just printed it out in color and after a quick spray coat of black on the wooden markers, I cut out the image and glued it to the top of the counter.

After that, it was one more coat of white glue to seal the whole thing and I've been using them ever since. They hold up fairly well to game play with the two coats of glue on there. I haven't had any issues with the image peeling up at all.

Once I mechanized my Templars, it was another story. Now I needed to keep track of my two Crusaders running around on the table.

Another set of markers were born. I made the image from an idea I got off of a border. But the process is the same. These are invaluable to me and I don't know how I would play without something like this to keep track of the status of my vehicles.

The last set comes from a type of gaming a few of us in my local gaming club got into a while ago. I was tired of playing the standard Cleanse mission and went looking for something new. I found the Rules of Engagement rules on the UK GW site a long time ago and discovered the world of objective based gaming (this was way before 5ED made objective based gaming what it is today).

For those who are looking for a real challenge, I highly reccommend trying out this way of playing. It is deceptively simple and can be real hard to win at these games. These missions really do not care if you have a "power army." If you think the 5ED objective games are tough, try these.

If you really want to change things up, add these little scenario modifiers to your games: 40k Hazardous Environments.
These will absolutely wreck your concept of fair play and regular game interaction but I'll tell you what, using these has made for some of my most memorable games ever. If you thought you had bad luck before adding these to your games, just wait.

I made these counters from color copies of old Space Hulk Genestealer counters. They make the perfect objective marker. I have 6 red and 3 green. The red ones are numbered 1 through 6 on the bottom as well for certain situations.

Run and Go to Ground Markers

With 5th Edition here and new mechanics (things like ‘Run’ and ‘Go to Ground’), I thought I might make up some markers for my army to represent these actions.

I’ve always liked the Adeptus Mechanicus symbol and all their associated imagery. When came time to make these new markers, I tried a number of things before settling on this version.

Nothing seemed to work for me though.

Then I decided I would use the Ad Mech symbol as a background image and use real simple descriptions over that to show the action taken.

Nothing fancy at all.
++ The +1 is for a unit that has‘Gone to Ground’ denoting the addition to the unit’s cover save.
++ The NO symbol (circle with a line through it) is for a unit that ‘Runs’ to denote they cannot assault in the following Assault Phase.

They are posted here as a .jpg image that you can click on for a larger version. Save the larger version to your desktop and then print it out at the scale you want. You can glue them to the tops of round bases or do what I do, glue them to some similarly sized wooden disks that I pick up at Michael’s Craft store.

Note: The black line around the image is for size only. Since I glue my markers to black backgrounds, I use it as a guide to cut the image out

Tau Markerlight Counters

I recently played against a Tau opponent and found myself on the receiving end of a considerable amount of markerlights throughout the game. I couldn't move an inch without getting lit up by those pesky things.

Thank goodness I had terminator armour. But anyway...

My opponent was really good with keeping track and marking the number of times my units were "marked." He used a D6 to keep track for each unit. This worked, but with so many dice floating around on most game tables, I can see how there is the possibilty for confusion.

As I was cruising through the Tau Codex, I came across something even better than dice.

The folks at GW were kind enough to print a handful of counters in the Codex that can be copied and glued to 25mm bases and used as markerlight counters. The only trouble is, they are right near the spine of the book and it would take breaking the spine just to get them onto a copier to duplicate.

So... I decided I would make up some similar versions and post them here for people to download (and save their Codex from destruction).

For those of you who know how to read "Tau script," I have no idea what I wrote around the edge, I just made up some cool looking letters similar to what I found on the GW site. It still gives the same effect to those of us on the receiving end of these things, it scares us to death.

There are four versions of the same "image." The one counter on the upper left is made to be mounted on a white background, the other 3 are meant to mounted on black backgrounds (that's why they have the black ring around them... to show the white or grey edge where you cut them out).

Just click on the counter image above to get the larger version and then save that to your computer. Then you can print it out at the scale you want and make as many counters as you need.

Hopefully it's not that many... these things kill.

Eldar psychic powers markers

These were born out of something similar to the Tau Markerlight Counters above.
EDIT: I looked through the Eldar Codex... no counters like these!

But anyway, in one of my first games with my Lustwing, I got stomped by a very tough Eldar list and one of the things I realized after turn one (other than I was going to lose) was that the game was going to see a lot of psychic powers being thrown around. More by him than me but the real issue was keeping up with all the effects on different units while the powers were in play.

So that brings us to what happened next, I forget whether he asked me if I could make them or I offered to do it but I ended up maing him some army specific counters with the 5 powers on them so he could turn them into counters to place next to units instead of having to use dice to mark which units were affected by which powers. He said they were a big hit with his opponents in his games the following weekend at a tournament and they helped tremendously in keeping track of what powers had been used where.

So, all that having happened, I sat down the other day and dug through some old Space Hulk pieces I had lying around and came across two pieces I thought had a suitable pattern for general psychic power counters. The result is what you see here. There are two "flavors" if you will... Super Electric blue and Mind Dizzing Yellow.

All you need to do is click on the image for the larger version and then save that to your desktop.

So there you have it, a handful of images that you can save and print out to make any number of counters you might need in your games.

I recently made up a few new counters for my White Scars army. I needed a way to mark those units that turbo boosted. They are a real life saver in reminding what my bikes can and can't do each turn and when I get my invulnerable save!

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

25 comments:

Making cardstock banners for 40k

Here's the step by step process I do to make the banners in my army. It can be somewhat involved but if you're willing to take the time, it can be well worth it once you see the final results. Mounting the banner on your mini is not covered here... just making it.

Step 1
Collect all your supplies for the project.
Paints, brushes, pencil with a sharp point, regular ball point pen
Micron 005 drafting pen a similar quality drafting pen
Small piece of posterboard
X-acto blade or other suitable sharp modeling knife (use a new blade!)
Access to a photocopier
PVA (white glue)
Spray varnish (optional)

Reference material to draw from... remember, we are making our own banner here.

The image below can be copied. Save it to your desktop and print it out. Use the scale to adjust it to the right size and you'll have a handfull of banner outlines ready to go.

Step 2
Figure out the shape of your banner
You can find a template online, photocopy the shape of one out of the Space Marine Codex or draw your own (make sure you have a mini nearby for scale).
In this example, I'm doing a "Chapter sized" banner. Since I already have a template, it's no problem. If you draw your own or copy one from somewhere, make sure to add tabs at the top that can be folded over to hang the banner on it's banner pole. I usually make mine about 3/8 inch or 10mm long.

Step 3
Enlarge the banner
Take your bnner outline over to the photocopier and enlarge it around 175 percent. You can go larger but I've found this to be a good size to work with. This enlarged copy of your banner outline is what you are actually going to draw your own banner image onto.

Step 4
Gather your reference material and get drawing.
Before you start drawing your actual image, draw a "box" slightly smaller inside the outline of your enlarged banner. Inside the "box" will be your image area. I am drawing Helbrecht's personal banner with a few slight changes. You'll want to have a nice, clean drawing with no stray marks when you're all done with this step.

Step 5
Back to the copier, we want actual size now
Take your drawing back to the copier, now you want to reduce it back down to it's original size before it was enlarged. Depending on how much you enlarged it will determine how much you need to reduce it. Play with the proportions until you get it spot on. Sometimes I'll hold the two pieces of paper up together in front of a light to make sure the images are the same size.

Step 6
Cut it out and set it aside.
Once you have your drawing reduced down to your banner's original size, take your X-acto knife and cut out the "image area." Use the box you drew inside the banner outline as your guide. The end result should be your drawing, reduced to scale, that fits nicely into the correct sized banner outline. Set this cut out piece aside for now.

Step 7
Make the actual banner.
Take your original banner outline from Step 2 and shade the back of it with pencil. Transfer this outline onto the small piece of posterboard. Go over the pencil lines with the ball point pen.

Step 8
Time to seal the banner.
Take the PVA (white glue) and apply a thin coat to the front of the banner. What you're trying to do here is seal the posterboard. DO NOT dillute the glue in any of these steps.
I use my finger to spread the glue around, you can use a brush if you want but the idea is to not leave any texture in the glue. You won't have long to work with the glue before it starts to dry and you start adding texture... so work quickly. You want a nice, smooth, even coat across the front of the banner.
LET THIS DRY COMPLETELY before going on.
If you miss a spot, don't worry, do NOT go back and try to spread the glue to cover it. It is far better to wait for the glue to dry and then go back and add a little more glue over the area that you missed.

Step 9
Time to seal the banner... again.
Repeat Step 8 on the back of the posterboard.

LET THIS DRY COMPLETELY before going on.

Do you see that letting it dry is important now?

Step 10
Putting it all together.
Grab your image you set aside in Step 6. Place it on top of your posterboard outline and make sure it fits properly.
Remove the image, apply a thin coat of white glue to the front of the banner and place your image back down on top of the banner. Working quicky, center the image in the outline and press it down, working from the center out to remove any trapped air and wrinkles.
LET THIS DRY COMPLETELY before going on.

Step 11
Protect the entire image.
Take the white glue and apply a thin coat to the front of the banner. What you're trying to do here is seal the entire piece and create a protective coating. Some glue is going to collect along the edges of the image area, this is not a problem, it will actually hide the fact that the image is glued onto the posterboard.

Step 12
Time to paint.
Paint your banner, it's a easy as painting between the lines.
Since the overall piece is protected by a thin layer of glue, there's no need to worry about any adverse effects on the posterboard from washed or glazes. Once you're done painting (image on the left), go back over the lines with the Micron or drafting pen you have. This will clean up the drawing tremendously and give it a nice clean finish (image on the right).

Step 13
Cut it out and mount it.
Your banner should be done now. Carefully cut out the banner from the posterboard. Do yourself the favor and use a new, sharp blade... you don't want to tear your new masterpiece at this point because you were too lazy to simply change the blade.

Handle it carefully, mount it on your miniature using the tabs on the banner. You can use superglue to attach the tabs ( you did coat the back of the banner with white glue remember?) without any problems.

Finish painting the side edges and the back of your banner at this point now.
Give it a quick coat of varnish to help it stand up to the rigors of play (optional).

Proceed to the battlefield and kick your opponents around the table (this part not optional).

For some advanced tips, check out this follow-up post.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

9 comments:

Pre-Heresy Terminator Shoulder Pads

Here it is… my tutorial for building Pre-Heresy type Terminator shoulder pads.

1. I’ve added the rest of the building process to this tutorial because adding these shoulder pads changes a few things when I’m assembling the Terminator.
2. This is for a Chaos Terminator, but the process could be done just the same for a Loyalist Terminator.
3. This tutorial is a bit long but I think it’s all important information.
4. This is a bit above beginner level but still feasible with some patience and effort.

Supplies Needed:
Your model
X-Acto knife or similar hobby knife with NEW, SHARP blade

***If you aren’t going to take the time to get a new blade for this project, then stop reading right now. There is a lot of detail work and fine cutting that needs to be done and if you have any hopes of accomplishing this with any degree of success… you need to have a NEW, SHARP blade on your knife.***

Superglue (preferably any kind that is not too thick in consistency)
White glue
Fine point drafting pen (needs to be a real fine point for detail work)
Posterboard or similar thickness cardstock
Index card or similar thickness cardstock
Cereal box (you need the cardboard the box is made of… not the cereal)
A small nail or similar type tool with a fine point
Modeling tool (doesn’t matter what brand, I use the GW one and my X-Acto knife

Collect your pieces and trim off all the mold lines.

Assemble the torso halves. You will need to trim away any spikes, rivets, etc. around the neck area (red line) so the collar piece will fit later. If there is anything in the way on the top of the model, trim that away too (the spiky point in the case of the Chaos Terminator).

Take your templates and trace their outline onto a piece of posterboard.
I’ve added my templates here with a scale in inches and millimeters. You can copy this picture, print it out and then take it to a copier and reduce/enlarge until you get the scale on the drawing to match a ruler in real life.
There is one piece for the collar and two pieces for each shoulder pad. Obviously you will need to make each shoulder pad piece twice.

Fellow Blogger Not Yet Done has a great set of downloadable shoulder pad templates that can be used with this tutorial as well.

Once you have your shapes traced onto the posterboard, you can take your time and design the “trim” that will be on your shoulderpad. Using your fine point drafting pen, draw the pattern you will be cutting out in a few minutes.
Once you have the collar and shoulder pads drawn out, use your X-Acto to “cut out” the INSIDE of the design. Take your time and be careful. Neatness really counts here and it will take a steady hand with a new blade. Do not cut along the OUTSIDE of the template yet, that will be done later.

Once you have all your shoulder pads “cut out,” take them and use a thin layer of white glue to glue them down to the cereal box. Set them aside now and let this dry completely before going any further. You’ve gotten this far, you don’t want to mess it up because you are impatient.

Cut out the templates from the cereal box. This is where you cut along the OUTSIDE of the template edge now. Again, take your time and be careful.

Set the collar piece aside for now.
Time to glue the two parts of the shoulder pad together. Make sure the edge nearest the torso lines up flush (the red arrows) and superglue the two pieces together.

Once you have the two parts glued together, give them a few seconds to start setting and then it’s time to bend the shoulder pad to the correct shape. The first time I bend the shoulder pad, I use the handle of my X-Acto knife. I set it perpendicular to the X-Acto knife handle and use my thumbs to SLOWLY press it down on each side. Once I have it bent to the curve of the X-Acto handle, I then take and wrap it around the handle of one of my larger paintbrushes. The diameter of the paintbrush is slightly smaller than the X-Acto handle and allows me to get it into just the right shape.

Since you started doing this while the superglue was still drying, the superglue should hold the shape of the shoulder pad now. You can test fit the shoulder pad on the model and make any adjustments to the curve as needed.

Now it’s time to seal the edges of the shoulder pad. I use my X-Acto blade as a mount and take my superglue and apply a small amount around the entire edge of the shoulder pad. Since you should have superglue that is not too thick in consistency, it should quickly absorb into the cereal box. This basically turns the cereal box and posterboard into plasticard. Once you have both shoulder pads assembled, shaped and sealed, set them aside for now to dry. On to the collar now.

Time to attach the collar piece. You can pre-bend the collar piece by wrapping it around the handle of your X-Acto like you did for the shoulder pads. Take a small amount of superglue and apply it to the front edge of the torso and hold the collar piece in place until the superglue dries. It might take a little more superglue on the inside of the collar piece and near the back edges as most of the superglue will be absorbed by the cereal box the first time around.
You will need to greenstuff the back corners of the collar piece where it meets the back half of the torso. I would also apply a very small amount of greenstuff to the top lip of the collar to smooth it out and get rid of any irregularities since this will be a highly visible part on the model.

Time to attach the arms. I like to make my arm positioning a bit dynamic but it’s ultimately up to you. There is one thing to keep in mind when attaching the arms though.
Since these shoulder pads are attached differently than later model shoulder pads and don’t “float” with the arm like the older ones do… you need to make sure a few things line up so you can glue these in place correctly.
Line A shows that the tops of the actual arms need to be the same. In this case, I had to trim part of the left arm down so they were even.
Lines B and C show that the arms need to be positioned the same from front to back. Again, this is because these shoulder pads are different than their later versions and if you just place your arms on your model without giving any thought to consistency, you might end up with shoulder pads that don’t match in terms of height and front-to-back placement.

With the arms superglued and trimmed, it’s time to add some greenstuff in the shoulder joint to fill the gap. You shouldn’t have to worry about this part if you simply glued the arms in place without having repositioned them.

Time to assemble the model.
Glue the torso onto the legs. Add your head to the model. I use a NON-HELMETED head for this as it is the only kind that really fits. You could add the head prior to attaching the collar but I found it makes it tougher to position and greenstuff the collar in place.

Add the shoulder pads and top knot at this point. You should be able to superglue them in place without any problems.

Time to add the leather straps that hang below the shoulder pads. Take a small piece of index card (you could use the slightly thicker posterboard as well) and cut out small strips. The length and width is determined by how low and wide you want them to hang. I angle the ends of mine as well by cutting the bottom corners off. I usually add 4 to 5 leather straps under each shoulder pad. Simply superglue them in place right under the shoulder pad and let them hang in place.

Finished… almost. Time to add the rivets to the armour.
Using a nail or other sharp pointed similar object, place a tiny drop of white glue in the places you want rivets on your shoulder pads. It usually takes me 3 passes with tiny drops of white glue to get the “rivets” built up enough.

I didn't think about this the other day until I went to add the rivets onto the second set of shoulder pads I was making.
To make it easier when applying the glue rivets (since you need to repeat the process about three times) in the same place for consistency... mark where you want the rivets to go before you put any glue down. This time I used a small drafting pen and made small black dots on the shoulder pads where I wanted the rivets to be.

On the picture above I went over those locations with red dots to show you what I mean. This way, when you go to make the second and third passes with the glue to build up the actual rivet, you can make sure they all end up in the same place and not just "close." This way you get a nice, clean looking rivet in the end.

That’s it.
Remember, take your time and be patient when doing this. It’s fairly detailed but the end results are well worth it I think. Here's what he looks like unpainted.

And if you're looking for how to add to this, you can check out this post on how to make leg armour plates for your terminator as well.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

12 comments:

Commission Work

There are way too many unfinished minis out there... it's my job to fix that.

Don’t have the time to paint that new unit of Troops or are you looking for something different and you just don’t know if it’s something you can pull off on your own?

Whether it’s modeling or painting, from the simple to the complex, I’m open for commissions for most lines of tabletop miniature games… at an affordable price too.

My primary focus is 40k but I’m always open to other games.

I believe in communicating with my clients to make sure I know exactly what they’re looking for and then producing a high quality product that they’re proud to have and something I would be proud to use as well.
I treat my commissions like they were my own models.

Given my current schedule, I must limit myself to producing your basic, tabletop quality finished models. If you are looking for higher quality levels of painting, I may be able to accomodate it but on a case by case basis.

What does my "tabletop standard" look like? Look at these guys.

NOTE: At this point, I do not varnish models when finished. I've had a number of instances where a gorgeous model has had to be touched up due to problems with varnishing. All models are handled with clean hands and carefully packed and shipped to prevent chipping and damage to their paint jobs.

I can go from start to finish (from assembly to clear coat).
I’m also open for single aspects like just converting something or just painting a single unit or character. When it comes to conversion work, I'm more than happy to order the bits needed (if you don't already have them) and simply add the cost of the bits into the project and save you the additional shipping and handling you would have paid if you'd bought them on your own and had them sent to me.

Techniques I use:
Priming: Usually spray but sometimes brushed on.
Base color: I can match just about any color a client requests.
Shading: Usually done with washes, but I’ll use layering when washes won’t work or don’t achieve the desired result.
Highlighting: Usually a single line highlight (I don’t just “drybrush” everything).
Basing: I can do just about any kind of base a client requests.

I can reproduce specific techniques like “dipping” or certain effects like “glowing” if it’s requested.

This varies based on the scope of the project, quality a client is looking for, the colors used (some colors require a substantial amount of additional work), techniques requested and any conversion work involved.

I ask for 1/3 of the total cost up front (non-refundable deposit) to cover expenses and the remainder upon completion of the project.

I ask that the client paying for the shipping and handling of all the models. I will pack them and send a price before shipping them. Models are sent with insurance and delivery confirmation to make sure they arrive safely.

I’ll gladly accept PayPal and check/money order for projects. Other arrangements for payment are made on a case by case basis. I don’t usually work for trade though.

Time involved:
This depends on the number of commissions I currently have and how involved the project you would like for me to take on is. Time lines are figured out on a case by case basis with each client. Projects can be rushed if you need something immediately for an additional fee.

How it works:
Contact me by email and let me know what you’re interested in doing.
Hopefully I can help you, if not, I’ll be honest and let you know if it’s something that’s out of my abilities.

We’ll go back and forth by email until we have the project outlined (quality, scope, techniques) and I’ll give you a quote for the project. This varies as I want to make sure I know exactly what you’re looking for and you know exactly what I will be doing for you.

You decide whether or not you want to go forward with the commission and then we’ll get the deposit, mailing addresses and everything else sorted out.

As the project progresses, I’ll send you email updates and pictures so you can see the progress being made. When I have questions, I’ll email you to find out what you want me to do before moving on.

When the project is finished, I’ll send you some final pictures and you complete the payment and then I mail out your commission.

If you’ve got any questions, please feel free to contact me at:

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

2 comments:

How to get the most from FTW

From the Warp was created as a way for me to share my hobby. It has turned into something much bigger than I ever anticipated it would.
I am forever grateful to all those who support this site.

If you're looking to get the most from this site, there are a few things you can do.

1. Visit regularly!
You can also subscribe by email and get email updates sent to you when something new is posted. I try and post once a day and subscribing will let you know when something new has gone up on the site. You can always swing by and check it out at your own pace then.

FTW focuses on the modeling and painting aspect of the hobby more than anything else. Sure, we have lots of other stuff, but most of it is just me sharing the stuff I'm learning as I go along.

If you want to show your support by becoming a Follower, just scroll down the right hand column, sign in and start following.

2. Check out the FTW Blogger Group.
The FTW Blogger Group members are collected into Expansions that can be found in the right hand column. With links to over 500 bloggers (almost all 40k related), they are constantly being updated with tons of new stuff. Each new update comes with a timestamp so you can scroll down to the point where you last visited. That way you don't miss anything.

Group members also participate in Collaborative posts.
These posts focus on one topic (like painting tips for example) and all bloggers contribute their wisdom on the topic.

If you're interested in joining, here's what you need to do.

3. Check out the Archives.
Tips and Tutorials
Here you'll find tons of links from bloggers covering Modeling, Painting, Terrain and Photography. This is constantly growing as bloggers send in new links.

Links to lots of free PDF's to help you with the hobby. From cheat sheets to rules and links to official FAQ's, it's all stuff desinged to help you out.

Consumer Reviews
A database of personal experiences with online companies. If you're looking to buy something online, check out what other people may have to say about the company.

4. Contribute!
You can send in your links to be added to FTW. Not only does it help other hobbyists out there, it'll get traffic back to your blog too. Everything you need to know about sending your links in can be found here.

5. Enjoy the weekly FTW features.
The Tuesday Top Ten
Posted every Tuesday, this list is compiled by Ryan and it covers the best of the best out there in the blogging world. He goes through hundreds and hundreds of blog posts every week looking for those few that really stand out.

Warzone Wednesdays
Each Wednesday, Col. Corbane takes a look at terrain in the 40k universe. From spotlighting what other hobbyists have built to to in-depth tutorials, he covers a good amount of ground each week.

Rogue Trader Fridays
Posted every Friday, Bryan goes through his old Warhammer 40k books from way back when and shares some artwork from those days. If you've been playing forever, it brings back great memories. If you're new to the hobby, you can see what it used to be like in the "old days."

The Week in 40k Podcasting Review
Posted every Saturday, EvilEd goes over the past week's podcasts and gives us the inside track on what they've covered for the week. He lets us know what he thinks is worth listening to and what you might want to skip this time.

The Old Timer's league
When I do get a chance to play an actual game of 40k, it's with a few close freinds ever now and then. I try and snap some pictures and highlight the night of gaming in these (really infrequent) posts.

The Wife's Perspective
Yep, my Wife has decided that after a couple years of enduring my hobby, she is more than qualified to speak her mind on "little man" affairs. She pulls no punches in her editorial articles.

The Warp can be a changing place. FTW is home to hundreds and hundreds of links. Over time, Bloggers will change their site, lose articles, not keep things updated or any other host of things can happen. Unfortunately, this means you may click on a link only to find it's no longer there now.
If that happens, I apologise. If you want to let me know about it, I would appreciate it so I can remove the "dead" link from the site and save any future travelers the headache of getting lost in the warp.

Thanks for stopping by and I hope you find something useful here.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

No comments:

Inside the Hive Mind

As a way of helping all Tyranid (and us non-bug players out there too), FTW has collected some of the best Tyranid blogger articles out there.
From modeling to painting and whatever else we could scrape together before the bugs ate it, it's all listed below in hopes that it might help you out.

Hive Guard conversion by Spikey Bits
Hive Guard, Pyrovore and Venomthrope by Game Headz
Hive Tyrant WIP by DSM Pontifications
Hive Tyrant conversion by Spikey Bits
Landing Spores by Black Matt's Black Legion Blog
Magnetise: Ravenor by Game Headz
Magnetise: Trygon by Eldar Addict
Mycenetic Spore Pod by FoxPhoenix's 40k
Mycetic Spore conversion by Pathfinder
Pinning Tyranids to their bases by 40k Terrain
Slitherfex conversion by Spikey Bits
Tervigon: WIP by Eldar Addict
Trygon (homemade) by Game Headz
Trygon conversion Part 1, Part 2 by My Wargame
Tyranid Harpy WIP by Spikey Bits
Tyranid ichor, ooze and slime by Hephesto's Forge
Tyrant Guard conversion Part 1, Part 2 by Spikey Bits
Winged Tyrant WIP, and finished by FoxPhoenix's 40k

Army showcase by Black Matt's Black Legion Blog
Army showcase by Corbania Prime
Army Showcase by Bellum Aeternum
Dipping Tyranids by Transmutation Inc.
Finished Trygon by 40k Hobby Blog
Hive Fleet color schemes by MAWS 40k
Hormaguants by Men with Toy Soldiers
Genestealer Patriarch by Painting by Tinweasel
Genestealer step by step by 40k Hobby Blog
Genestealers Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 by Heresy Workshop
Genestealer step by step by Ron (FTW)
Old Tyranid models by 40k Hobby Blog
Ripper conversion (for fun) by Pathfinder
Tyranids Old and New by Painting by Tinweasel

Gaming and Reviews
Codex review of units by Imperuis Dominatus
First thoughts of the new Codex by Pathfinder
First thoughts by Spite for the Dice Gods
A quick overview of the new Codex by Imperius Dominatus
In depth review Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 by The Quiet Limit of the World
Playtesting 'Nids Part 1, Part 2 by Spikey Bits
Tervigon horrors by The Wraith Gate
Tyranid test games, and the follow up by Bellum Aeternum
Tyranid FOC breakdown by Pathfinder
Tyranids vs. Guard with unit analysis by Pathfinder
Tyranid favorite units by Imperius Dominatus
Tyranofex, is he worth it by Dilusions of Grandeur

Anti-mech capabilities Part 1, Part 2 by The Wraith Gate
Carnifexes by Warhammer 39,999
Doom of Malan'Tai rules by Dilusions of Grandeur
Gargoyles by Warhammer 39,999
Genestealers by Warhammer 39,999
Genestealers by Men With Toy Soldiers
Hormagaunts by Warhammer 39,999
Hormaguants by Men With Toy Soldiers
Lictors by Warhammer 39,999
Mawloc and the rules by Dilusions of Grandeur
Monstrous Creatures vs Vehicles by Spite for the Dice Gods
Ravenors by Warhammer 39,999
Rippers by Warhammer 39,999
Shadow in the Warp by Maunderings of a 40k Gamer
Spore Mines, a look at their rules by The Wraith Gate
Shooting options for Tyranids by Spite for the Dice Gods
Spore Mines by Warhammer 39,999
Starting a Swarm: HQ by Imperius Dominatus
Starting a Swarm: Troops by Imperius Dominatus
Starting a Swarm: Elites by Imperius Dominatus
Termagaunts by Warhammer 39,999
Trygon: GW or FW version by Spikey Bits
Trygon vs. Mawloc by Spite for the Dice Gods
Tyrant Guard by Warhammer 39,999
Warriors by Warhammer 39,999
Warriors by Men with Toy Soldiers
Zoanthropes by Warhammer 39,999

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

2 comments:

My Rants and Opinions

Some stuff about the hobby in general:
Success and failure when it comes to painting
The top 7 things you do when you can't hobby
Do you have a painting style or do you struggle?
I only paint what I can see on a model
Outside of miniature wargaming, what competes for your hobby time?
They make fun of my "nerd man armies"
My Top Five color schemes of all time
Did I build and paint my HQ wrong?
Why you should mark your vehicles
There is no "auto-tie" mission
You can change your Codex, but not the rules
What do the words "Pro-Painted" mean to you?
What is 40k to you?
The call of Fantasy, or why I don't play.
On any given Sunday, any army can win
Are resin bases right for your army?
Painting with GW Foundation paints, why I don't
Conversions live and die in the tiny details
Deepstriking: It's not dangerous, it's random
The "social contract" we agree to when playing 40k.
What's my army missing?
Carrying cases: I don't get it, Build your own and transporting large models
Defining area terrain edges, a must have game mechanic?
Scratchbuilding no, kitbashing yes... my limits.
A Painting Quiz, how much detail do you need to paint?
Finding an army that suits you.
How do you make your army stand out?
Learn your army AND the rules
Would you pay to play 40k?
Army Building: Do you build what you really want to?
It's not your army that loses, it's you
My painting style over time, What I've learned (Part 2)
Painting your models: Love to or hate to?
40k, 5th Edition... extinction level event?
List Building: Offense or Defense?
40k Rumors, but I can't tell you
Hobby Time and how it differs from Real Time
How many shots does that thing have?
Conversions: Can you "see" the end result?
Timed turns for 40k?
Using Forge World stuff

My Wife's Perspective
Balancing hobby and home
Playing to Win

Guest Author Articles:
Getting your army finished, how to
The Return of Herohammer?
What kind of list do you build?
Themed Army Lists: The Air Cav, Part 1 and Part 2
What, no model for your must have unit?

Some stuff on blogging in general:
The top three things you should not say in a post
The purpose of your Warhammer 40k blog
Asumptions you make when posting
But what should I post about?
10 ways to improve your blog
Profanity and the hobby
What's in it for me?
The FTW Blogger Group, for what?
Really, is your little blog worth it?
FTW, the first year in review
I struggle with my blog
Blogging about 40k and making money?
An analytical look at FTW

No comments:

The Rending Pony Datasheet

What started out as a legitimate post about the supposed new 3+ Storm Shield save on FTW member's blog, Ultramarine Blues didn't take long to degenerate into something far less substantial.

I don’t know who coined the term or when it came to be, but honestly, that doesn’t matter now.

What matters now is that we have the UNOFFICIAL Apocalypse Data Sheet for the mythical ‘Rending Pony’.

Ron, From the WarpIf you've got any questions about something in this post, shoot me a comment and I'll be glad to answer. Make sure to share your hobby tips and thoughts in the comments below!

12 comments: